tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40983390444398582662024-03-14T09:02:20.040-06:00Siemens Bottling Co.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-60337794253776862632015-01-04T22:45:00.000-07:002015-01-04T22:46:53.486-07:00Super Mini Scale Ship in Bottle<div style="text-align: justify;">
I've been doing some experimenting with different ideas I've found across the web and developed a method of building ships in bottles in very small scales. I highly suggest visiting <a href="http://www.shipsinbottles.50megs.com/" target="_blank">Eddy's Thimble SIB Pier</a> and <a href="http://www.builderofships.com/" target="_blank">David Lavoie's Website</a> for information and to see more incredibly small ships in bottles. </div>
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Let's start with the bottle. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBjO9AodMq0/U88umK5grSI/AAAAAAAAA7c/0nEfDcVw7dY/w724-h543-no/20140722_213906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBjO9AodMq0/U88umK5grSI/AAAAAAAAA7c/0nEfDcVw7dY/w724-h543-no/20140722_213906.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a one inch vile I got from Michael's. It came in a pack with several other vials. Measuring the bottle is important at all scales but most importantly at this one since there's not a lot of space to work with. Tall ships are generally as tall as the are long. This bottle gives plenty of length in comparison to height so height is important as it also gives about what the length of the ship should be. To measure it I use one of the most important tools for this scale a paint brush. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LiF1XW-JE-w/U88vjeS5A7I/AAAAAAAAA8E/n89L8tEnfbo/w724-h543-no/20140722_214351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LiF1XW-JE-w/U88vjeS5A7I/AAAAAAAAA8E/n89L8tEnfbo/w724-h543-no/20140722_214351.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sounds weird but this paint brush solved a lot of the problems I had when it came to this scale. First of all measurement. I cut off a bristle and used it to measure the inside. Cutting it down carefully until it just touched both sides. The ship can be no taller than a half inch. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p68huYeSPkU/U88yrZBojqI/AAAAAAAAA9o/fPzM0h0RB80/w724-h543-no/20140722_214754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p68huYeSPkU/U88yrZBojqI/AAAAAAAAA9o/fPzM0h0RB80/w724-h543-no/20140722_214754.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also measured the bottle neck to see how much width I had. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yjs8EJOc0Ro/U88vWQHwNFI/AAAAAAAAA78/dMhCN3tL-rs/w724-h543-no/20140722_214246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yjs8EJOc0Ro/U88vWQHwNFI/AAAAAAAAA78/dMhCN3tL-rs/w724-h543-no/20140722_214246.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now that I knew I had to build a ship with in a half inch by a quarter inch I was ready to start carving. There's all sorts of carving methods the only real important one here is to carve the ship on a long piece of wood so that it can be handled through out the build. I chose a Bermuda sloop to build because of it's relatively simple design. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lhSM706l9A0/U88ypiVyQPI/AAAAAAAAA9g/u9Z9S5_nmKg/w407-h543-no/20140722_215624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lhSM706l9A0/U88ypiVyQPI/AAAAAAAAA9g/u9Z9S5_nmKg/w407-h543-no/20140722_215624.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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Once the ship is carved I worked on the bulwarks. I made these out of paper stained with a wood stain. I carefully cut them to size and glued them on the side of the ship. I then glue on black thread to act as the channels and a small piece of wood for the stem. I coated the ship in two coats of clear nail polish to stiffen the paper. </div>
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I drilled through the bulwarks with a small drill and used 30 gauge wire for cannons. At this scale it's sometimes difficult to decide what to add and what not to. In one version of this ship I added cut out in the bulwarks. For the most part they were to hard to see so I opted for just drilling into the bulwarks. I've also added gun carriages in one version but not others. At this scale so much is hard to see I try to pay more attention to the sails rigging and overall hull then the finer details. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bW7_hAjZPkE/VDdcgIqgwFI/AAAAAAAABRc/18SV8a7LUpQ/w368-h490-no/20141009_221135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bW7_hAjZPkE/VDdcgIqgwFI/AAAAAAAABRc/18SV8a7LUpQ/w368-h490-no/20141009_221135.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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From here I go back to the paint brush. Cutting off more bristles I made the masts and yards. The importance of the bristles is that the bend easily with out breaking. They can easily go into the bottle and pop back up once they are completely in. I managed to get different thickness's by gluing two to four bristles together. Also gluing them in different spots I was able to add the different portions of the mast. I drilled a small hole and glued the mast to the hole. As mentioned the bristles bend easily to no hinges are needed. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kXcoUz1AXR4/VDdfh48YKEI/AAAAAAAABSw/2gQrDuzvcPY/w653-h490-no/20141009_222434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kXcoUz1AXR4/VDdfh48YKEI/AAAAAAAABSw/2gQrDuzvcPY/w653-h490-no/20141009_222434.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some experiments went into the bow. In one version I used a needle painted black. In another I used bamboo carved very thin. I have found that the bristles work just as well. I then used 0/8 fly tying thread for the rigging. I tied the back stays to the mast and glued them to the channels. Chain plates would be to small for this build. I put on two back stays on. I contemplated putting on ratlines but I'm not sure how I could make it work with out them seeming too over sized. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ1tFKdmKTA/VDdg8HOY_lI/AAAAAAAABUc/QCuPsm_I-Qk/w653-h490-no/20141009_223025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ1tFKdmKTA/VDdg8HOY_lI/AAAAAAAABUc/QCuPsm_I-Qk/w653-h490-no/20141009_223025.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fore stays I hardened with super glue so they stay straight. I then cut them to size before going into the bottle. Normally I would use the fore stays to pull the masts up but in this case the mast pop up automatically and the opening is to small for knives or scissors to cut anything. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQkCHPkxjCA/VDds1UBfBdI/AAAAAAAABVo/C0bTDBmpLyc/w368-h490-no/20141009_232117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NQkCHPkxjCA/VDds1UBfBdI/AAAAAAAABVo/C0bTDBmpLyc/w368-h490-no/20141009_232117.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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From here I used light brown thread for the running lines. This is the best photo I have of those. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-suaQQEZMNGk/U7ZHMVrOoAI/AAAAAAAAAwM/YqxERAjNuVo/w653-h490-no/20140704_001747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-suaQQEZMNGk/U7ZHMVrOoAI/AAAAAAAAAwM/YqxERAjNuVo/w653-h490-no/20140704_001747.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used tissue paper for the sails and drew on the details. Here's a couple photos of finished ships ready to bottle. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tSiMxS6uKLA/VDdx3rPmmyI/AAAAAAAABXQ/KmvtNFB2wCY/w653-h490-no/20141009_234247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tSiMxS6uKLA/VDdx3rPmmyI/AAAAAAAABXQ/KmvtNFB2wCY/w653-h490-no/20141009_234247.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ym65d9zjMDs/U18ZOato4iI/AAAAAAAAArU/I9eV_17hf-I/w724-h543-no/20140428_211420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ym65d9zjMDs/U18ZOato4iI/AAAAAAAAArU/I9eV_17hf-I/w724-h543-no/20140428_211420.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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At this point the ship is cut off from the rest of the wood and is ready to go into the bottle. As usual I use Plasticine clay for the sea. A couple seconds over a hot burner makes it stick well to the glass. I put the ship in and then bottle and glue it to the sea. I then glue the fore stays to the bow. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o0_MBGzX37U/VDd3Z1OvosI/AAAAAAAABXk/0UGXVsu_Lf8/w368-h490-no/20141010_000625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o0_MBGzX37U/VDd3Z1OvosI/AAAAAAAABXk/0UGXVsu_Lf8/w368-h490-no/20141010_000625.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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I then cork the bottle and add a stand and other details. Below is all the various versions of this build. It goes pretty quick and makes a great gift. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-suaQQEZMNGk/U7ZHMVrOoAI/AAAAAAAAAwM/YqxERAjNuVo/w653-h490-no/20140704_001747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-suaQQEZMNGk/U7ZHMVrOoAI/AAAAAAAAAwM/YqxERAjNuVo/w653-h490-no/20140704_001747.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cqmQI8OJCK8/VDd3fxaPqJI/AAAAAAAABYI/4IUrrzgbWlA/w653-h490-no/20141010_000649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cqmQI8OJCK8/VDd3fxaPqJI/AAAAAAAABYI/4IUrrzgbWlA/w653-h490-no/20141010_000649.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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That's all for now. Thanks for reading. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16478410092754630920noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-12300496873265264502014-05-24T12:38:00.000-06:002014-05-25T07:12:11.106-06:0020 Questions with Heather Gabrielle Rogers<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Time for another round for 20 Questions. This time I will be featuring Heather Gabrielle Rogers. First let me apologize sine Heather sent this to me almost a year ago and I'm just now posting it. Life got a little busy for me. I am very happy however, that she chose to fill out my questionnaire. Her work is incredible and she has a way of adding a great sense of realism and emotion to her ships in bottle's. I highly recommend you visit her website to see more. <a href="http://www.shipinbottles.com/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.shipinbottles.com/index.html</a></span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://www.shipinbottles.com/index.html" target="_blank"> </a></span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1. What is your name? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> Heather Gabrielle Rogers</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2. Where in general are you from? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I grew up in Mathews, Virginia, which is right on the Chesapeake Bay. I lived on a boat for a couple years and now I’m enjoying Switzerland.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3. How long have you been building ships in bottles? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I have been building ships in bottles for nearly 4 years now….but it seems I started just recently. I guess each SIB I build is like starting something completely new, filled with different problems to solve and challenges for myself.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">4. What got you into ship in bottle building? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I saw I man demonstrating the art in Beaufort Maritime Museum in North Carolina. I needed a craft that took up a small amount of space because, at the time, I lived on a sailboat. So, after seeing the demonstration, I decided to try….it worked out well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">5. What was the first ship in bottle you ever built?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A New England Coastal Schooner</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 28.799999237060547px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Oh that’s not a fare question! I have enjoyed most everyone I have built. It would probably be </span><span style="line-height: 28.799999237060547px; white-space: pre-wrap;">easier to answer ‘what was my least favorite build.’ Okay I have one favorite… the “Kalmar </span><span style="line-height: 28.799999237060547px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nyckel and Fogel Grip” Bottle.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">7. What do you think makes your ships in bottles unique?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">My ships in bottles are incredibly detailed and are completely hand made in every way. But what sets them apart from others is that, I try to build a model that is accurate and to scale, but still has an active life within the bottle (unlike the large static models). I try to capture movement, emotions, a reality of the relationship between the sea and a ship. And most importantly, put it all together in the proper bottle that suits the overall ship and atmosphere I am trying to capture. In the end it must be a complete composition where all the pieces are in harmony with one another.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">8. What types of ships do you prefer?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I like the classic yachts the most, the beautiful and slick boats, with nicely curved bows and slender sterns that rise out of the water. You realize once you begin to carve them that, they just begin to appear from the block of wood, and you can understand exactly how they were designed in the past. Add a wooden mast, a gaffed rig, with full sail, and I think you may have one of the most naturally beautiful sights that have graced our waters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">9. What is your favorite part of ship in bottle building?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">My favorite part is the challenge of coming up with new ways of creating all the details of the ship. I avoid looking into books too much, because that takes the fun and ingenuity out of it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">10. Is there a design or method that you use that you are particularly proud of?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I’m proud that I have tried lots of different methods, but one thing that does set my SIBs apart from others, is the look of the ocean I create. The overall color, surface appearance, and stability of the plumber’s putty, mixed with oil paints, allows me to create a very realistic sea composition. I’ve experienced lots of different seas while cruising on our sailboat inshore and offshore. The sea is normally never bright royal blue, but everything from a beautiful turquoise, dark rich blues, to even greenish brown muddy colors. Sailing showed me that sometimes waves break, some roll and have large distances in between them, sometimes there are huge amounts of foam, they can be short and choppy, or nearly standing upright in places where current is contrary to wind. The sea is actually the hardest thing to capture inside of a bottle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Here’s a Chesapeake Bay scene on a day when the water looks a bit greenish grey. There are short choppy waves that are irregular, and white caps…a typical 15-20 knot, windy day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">11. Have you had any instances where a build went horribly wrong? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Horribly wrong, as in a total loss…no, but I have had lots of things break when under construction and when being inserted into the bottle, masts, bowsprits, lines, shrouds…you name it. I’ve yet to smash one with my fist, although it’s come close.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">12. What are some of your favorite materials to use?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Basswood, is great for carving, making veneers, and small details. I also like to take tiny watch parts and use them to mimic parts of the ship: a watch gear turns into the wheel, watch hands are used for chainplates and turnbuckles, washers can be used as blocks, etc… </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">13. What are some of the most unusual materials you’ve used in a build?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I don’t know…everything has a purpose, so I might not think of it as unusual.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">14. <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 1.7999999999999998; white-space: pre-wrap;">What creative tools have you created?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span id="E180" qowt-eid="E180" style="line-height: 1.7999999999999998; white-space: pre-wrap;">My tool building is pretty limited to mostly wire coat hangers bent to suit. I guess I don’t excel there because I haven’t needed anything very special…I don’t even have a special stand to work on my SIB</span><span id="E181" qowt-eid="E181" style="line-height: 1.7999999999999998; white-space: pre-wrap;">s</span><span id="E182" qowt-eid="E182" style="line-height: 1.7999999999999998; white-space: pre-wrap;"> like most</span><span id="E183" qowt-eid="E183" style="line-height: 1.7999999999999998; white-space: pre-wrap;"> do. In the end I spend all my time focusing on building the model.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">15. What books do you recommend for ship in bottle building?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">We all like to recommend Don Hubbard’s…it is a great starter book, but in reality, any books on ship in bottle building can get you started. For me the most important books are those that keep you going, inspiring you. I like Gerard Aubry’s book “Marines en Bouteille”, or Peter Hille and Barry Young’s book “Ship Models in Glass.” Books that aren’t just written to be created, but to share a passion and creativity that an author has in his/her craft…those books are inspiring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">16. What is the most interesting bottle you have found?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The most interesting bottles are always the chemist’s bottles, they can be round, conical, large, tiny, balloon shaped, etc … and they are made of pyrex, which seems very durable, heat resistant, and most of the time quite clear.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">17. What’s the most unique place or way you have found a bottle?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I once saw a large wine shaped, green tinted bottle from afar at a flea market. I could tell it was clear and just right…a special find, and I was smiling ear to ear as I approached it. I didn’t notice until I literally picked it up out of the box, that it was a bottle that had been cut in half, vertically, down the middle…you can only imagine my surprise and dismay. I still bought it and want to put a half hull model inside!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">18. What is your favorite response to the question, “How did you get it in there?”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I hired a group of tiny fairies, they work at night, I pay them in popcorn, everyone’s happy. No, really I don’t like answering that question, so I make a poster with pictures when I am at an event and generally point to it with little explanation, otherwise I feel like a broken record. Having visual information helps people to understand more so than an explanation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">19. What ships are on your to do list?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Pride of Baltimore racing against the Schooner Virginia, Monitor and Merrimack Battle, another Jaws scene, the Martha White (Bluenose type schooner), and I've been thinking about doing more movie scenes and other schooners.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">20. What are you currently working on?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I am building a second Jaws Scene in Bottle, while working on the Pride of Baltimore and Schooner Virginia. Here’s the first Jaws Scene: </span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-91847063513746295512014-02-09T07:51:00.002-07:002014-02-09T07:51:51.002-07:00MercuryI recently completed a ship called the Mercury. This was a fun little build for some pirate reenacters. The draughts were drawn by William Brand a graphic designer. The full write up and details on how she was built can be found here.<br />
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<a href="http://piratesurgeon.com/pages/other_pages/mercury_bottle1.html">http://piratesurgeon.com/pages/other_pages/mercury_bottle1.html</a><br />
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If your into pirates or medical practices at sea this website by Raphael Mission is top notch. There's a lot of interesting and well researched articles. Enjoy. <br />
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<a href="http://piratesurgeon.com/pages/other_pages/images/Mercury_in_bottle_side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://piratesurgeon.com/pages/other_pages/images/Mercury_in_bottle_side.jpg" height="132" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16478410092754630920noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-9204847989155446792013-12-24T10:34:00.002-07:002013-12-24T14:02:50.756-07:0020 Questions With Christopher LemkeA few months ago I sent out 20 questions to my fellow ship in bottle builders in order to get to know them better. This post features Christopher Lemke. <br />
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<span id="E84" qowt-eid="E84" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. What is your name?</span><span id="E85" qowt-eid="E85" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><br />
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<span id="E87" qowt-eid="E87" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christopher Lemke</span></div>
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<span qowt-eid="E87" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. </span><span id="E89" qowt-eid="E89" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Where in general are you from? </span></div>
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<span id="E90" qowt-eid="E90" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span id="E91" qowt-eid="E91" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vine Grove KY (just outside Ft. Knox & Louisville)</span></div>
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<span id="E94" qowt-eid="E94" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span id="E95" qowt-eid="E95" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">I began building SiBs in late 2011.</span></div>
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<span qowt-eid="E95" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">4. </span><span id="E97" qowt-eid="E97" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">What got you into ship in bottle building?</span><span id="E98" qowt-eid="E98" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div>
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<span qowt-eid="E98" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">I’ve been a modeler for YEARS since I was 11, my father and I built model kits side by side and still talk about our projects, when plastic kits began to skyrocket in prices I wanted to look into scratch building, a friend of mine bought me a Ship in a Bottle kit all pre cut and ready to build… from that point I was hooked.</span></div>
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<span qowt-eid="E98" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">5. </span><span id="E101" qowt-eid="E101" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">What was the first ship </span><span id="E102" qowt-eid="E102" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">in bottle </span><span id="E103" qowt-eid="E103" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">you ever built?</span></div>
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<span id="E104" qowt-eid="E104" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span id="E105" qowt-eid="E105" style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 26px; white-space: pre-wrap;">A readymade “Boat in a Bottle” kit that came completer with a glass bottle, cork, pre cut hull & masts, mast hinge wire, sails, rigging line, clay for the sea, and tweezers. I named it Denise after my wife as she’s the one who would be putting up with my new hobby!</span><br />
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<span class="TextRun SCX208622264" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">6. What was your favorite build?</span><span class="TextRun SCX208622264" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX208622264" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">My favorite so far was a build I made as a gift for my dad, I scratch built a model of the ship he served on during Viet Nam. The AKA-112 USS Tulare, I even built the LCM-3 He piloted into the bottle’s glass stopper.</span><span class="LineBreakBlob BlobObject SCX208622264" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX224608141" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">7. What do you think makes your ships in bottles unique?</span><span class="TextRun SCX224608141" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX224608141" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Unique? I’m not sure I rate ‘unique’, yet. I do really like building ‘odd’ ships that folks don’t often see, I’ve a project on the table of an 1800’s Ohio River ‘Kentucky Flat Boat’ loaded with bourbon casks.</span><span class="EOP SCX224608141" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="EOP SCX224608141" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">8. </span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">What types of ships do you prefer?</span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I love fully rigged tall ships of the Golden Age of Sail, I also enjoy Medieval Era ships, Civil War Iron </span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Clads</span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">, I’ve even built a Viking </span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCX49856678" style="background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Longship</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX49856678" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 27px;">9. </span></span><span class="TextRun SCX223472418" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">What is your favorite part of ship in bottle building?</span><span class="TextRun SCX223472418" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX223472418" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I love the research, finding the plans, colors etc… but I really love the building, adding the details, making everything </span><span class="TextRun SCX223472418" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">just right.</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX223472418" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">10. </span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Is there a design or method that you use that you are particularly proud of?</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I u</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">s</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">e a variable</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> speed </span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="SpellingError SCX138646148" style="background-image: url(data:image/gif; background-position: 0% 100%; background-repeat: repeat no-repeat; border-bottom-color: transparent; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Dremel</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> tool as a lathe to turn bamboo skewers down into masts, also</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I've become pretty accomplished in building ships where the hulls have to be split do</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">w</span><span class="TextRun SCX138646148" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">n the middle to fit into the bottle.</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">11. Have you had any instances where a build went horribly wrong? </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Oh yes… I built a Great Lakes armed sloop, placed it into the bottle, got it all seated into the sea and glued down and while I was pulling the lines to raise the sails the bottle pulled off its stand and fell</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">, all the weight of the bottle was hanging from the rigging lines, it broke all the masts.</span><span class="LineBreakBlob BlobObject SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span class="SCX166725893" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">12. What are some of your favorite materials to use?</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Basswood for the hulls, bamboo skewers for the masts, and acrylic paints</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">13. What are some of the most unusual materials you’ve used in a build?</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">So far the most unusual material has been driftwood.</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">14. What creative tools have you created?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjh4gyNblwrH4Hg8jK_4jw43kES0coTIUYjNuZpQvn7u0aHIrTqVgpkc7gbZt1rEleDGoBmPNZVoEryJ7GBNH_eG9ta5yzZBnkG0CCa82Qufcv2TU0GVIxDxcAXQTDMSql5mpBrkFMdqDa/s1600/GetImage+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjh4gyNblwrH4Hg8jK_4jw43kES0coTIUYjNuZpQvn7u0aHIrTqVgpkc7gbZt1rEleDGoBmPNZVoEryJ7GBNH_eG9ta5yzZBnkG0CCa82Qufcv2TU0GVIxDxcAXQTDMSql5mpBrkFMdqDa/s320/GetImage+%25287%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="TextRun EmptyTextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"></span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">15. What books do you recommend for ship in bottle building?</span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">There are SO many! But two of the best </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">How-to books </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">are: </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">Don Hubbard`s book SHIPS-In-BOTTLES</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> and How to Build Historical Bottled Ships</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">. </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">The best reference: The Story of Sail by Laszlo & Woodman</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">16. What is the most interesting bottle you have found?</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I have 2 and both have inspired their own projects, 1 is an antique 2 Gallon Jim Beam bottle, that’s what I’m building the Flat Boat in, the other is an antique glass Bayer aspirin bottle That’s going to have the Firs US Navy Hospital ship built in it.</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">I hunt through flea markets and yard sales.</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">18. What is your favorite response to the question, “How did you get it in there?”</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">HMS Bounty (working), Ohio River Kentucky Flat-Boat, USS Red Rover (1</span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 8.5pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"><span class="NormalTextRun SCX166725893" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: super;">st</span></span><span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US"> US Navy Hospital Ship), NCC1701 USS Enterprise (Star Trek)</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span class="TextRun SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" xml:lang="EN-US">2 Projects, the HMS Bounty and a commission piece for a retirement gift, a 66 Gun German/Dutch Man ‘O War pirate ship.</span><span class="EOP SCX166725893" style="color: windowtext; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 27px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"> </span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-49854016186658731292013-12-15T10:55:00.000-07:002013-12-15T10:58:49.005-07:00Beginners SchoonerWhen I first started this blog I posted instructions for a simple schooner. I'll be honest. I didn't know much about ship bottling then. I probably still don't in comparison to others I associate with. Since then though I've come a long way. I have created a new simple schooner that reflects easier and better techniques then the first. This one was created for a children's class I taught at a Jefferson County Library. Download the plans by clicking the link.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxe1Z4esSNP0NUVsMm5WSS1Ubms/edit?usp=sharingdfr" target="_blank">Beginners Schooner</a></span></div>
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To get the supplies for the schooner you'll need to run to your local craft and grocery store. Pick up the following.<br />
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Bass wood - as close to the dimensions on the plans as you can.<br />
Toothpicks<br />
Thread<br />
Sketch Paper<br />
24 gauge wire<br />
Blue Construction Paper<br />
Sauce Bottle<br />
Paint, Crayons, Colored Pencils - what ever you want to use to add some color. <br />
White Glue<br />
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If your starting completely from scratch you will need the following tools. <br />
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Small Saw<br />
Sand Paper<br />
#60 drill bit<br />
Scissors<br />
Wire Cutters<br />
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Now your ready to begin. Start by cutting your wood to size. It doesn't have to be exact but try for a 3/4" x 3/8" x 2 1/5" block. Then cut out a diagonal line into the bow and stern. These don't have to be exact either. You can cut them close to what the plans show or try different angles for some customization. <br />
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Next sand it down. Make the wood nice and smooth and round out the edges a little bit. <br />
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Once the sanding is done it's time to add the deck house. Cut out a 1/8" x 5/8" x 3/8" block and sand it smooth. Then glue it just in front of the middle of the ship. See the plans for reference. Now you can color the ship any way you like. <br />
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Get out your drill and #60 drill bit and drill six holes as indicated. The important thing to remember is to drill the two holes on the left and right side of the ship well behind the holes drilled for the mast. <br />
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Now time for the masts. Get out your toothpicks use one to clean your teach or to look cool and two more for the masts. Check them out first you want a good thick solid tooth pick. Cut them to size for the mast and the boom and drill holes in the end of the boom and two holes in the mast according to the plans. <br />
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Once the holes are drilled you can set the mast. Get the 24 gauge wire and cut off piece about an inch long. Push this piece of wire into the hole in the bottom of the mast. Center it then fold it down either side of the mast. This will make the hinge that will allow the mast to fold up and down. <br />
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Insert the wire into the holes for the mast. It will be a bit long but that's okay. Now cut off small pieces of the wire bit by bit until the mast just touches the ship. If you go to far that's fine it can still work. It's just easier to get it just right. Once your there dip the wire in glue and put it in the holes. <br />
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Once the glue dries you can attach the boom. Put the thread through the hole in the boom around the mast and tie it down. You'll want to leave a little bit of wiggle room so the boom can fold with the mast. <br />
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To tie the back stays push the thread through a hole in one side of the ship and tie it down. Then push the thread through the hole in the middle of the masts and through the hole in the other side of the ship. Now the tricky part. Tie a loose knot around the hole on the side of the ship. With one hand hold the mast upright and with the other pull the knot tight. It is very important that when the mast is pulled tight against the back stays that it is straight up and down. <br />
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The forward stay is then tied to the top of the mast and threaded through the hole in the bow. Leave enough of this line so that it can run out of the bottle neck. You will use it later to pull the mast up once the ships in the bottle. <br />
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The boom will need to be tied down so that it it's straight. Tie a line from the top of the mast to the end of the boom to hold it straight. Then tie a line from the end of the boom to the hole in the stern so that when the mast is upright the boom is held tight. Your almost there. <br />
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Color the sails before gluing them onto the boat. To get a nice wind filled look pull the sails between a pen and your thumb. This will give them a nice curve and make the sails look like they are full of wind. Glue the main sail onto the mast and then glue the other end to the boom. Fold the jib sail over and glue it to the forward stay. Be careful that the line is not glued down to the boat yet. You want the sails to be able to fold back to get the ship in the bottle. <br />
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Color a larger piece of paper blue to represent the sea. This will have to be measured carefully against the bottle you are using. If your bottles round make sure it' thin so it doesn't obstruct the view of the hull once in the bottle. Now she's ready to go inside. <br />
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Funny anecdote on this part. When I did this project for one of the Jefferson County Libraries I helped ten kids put these in bottles. Some parents dropped the kids off and then left to do other things. When they got back they asked their kids how they got the ship into the bottle. Their kids told them, "We can't tell you it's a secret."</div>
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Well here is the big secret. Carefully fold the mast back against the hull. You will have to take care not to crinkle the sail. Push the ship though the bottle neck and into the bottle. Once inside use a stiff wire like a coat hanger to hold the ship still while you pull the line running out the bottle to pull the mast up. Once you get the mast up and looking correct let it loosen a little and put a dab of glue onto the line just above the hole in the bow. Then pull that line tight. This will pull the glue into the hole and glue down the line. Hold it tight until the glue dries then cut the line with a long thin pair of scissors. Try to gut it as close to the bottom of the bow as you can. If you use super glue wait five minutes before putting the cap on the bottle. The vapors from the glue can cause fogging. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kty1T_HhmN8/Uq3f8HK1khI/AAAAAAAAAYY/YdhSsEyVcNc/w816-h543-no/Kid+project+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kty1T_HhmN8/Uq3f8HK1khI/AAAAAAAAAYY/YdhSsEyVcNc/w816-h543-no/Kid+project+025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You've done it! The ship is in the bottle. </div>
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This little ship is actually my wife's first (and only so far) ship in bottle. She did all the coloring and knot tying. I had her help me in preparation for the kids class at the library. For those that would like to try a similar project I'll throw in a few words of advice.<br />
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Don't worry about whether or not the kids can tie these little knots. They will surprise you with what their little fingers can do. Most tied knots better then I can.<br />
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If your doing this for a group of kids teach the adults helping how the entire process works before hand. This is a craft that will easily descend into chaos if you don't have enough help. The more that know how it works the smoother things will go. <br />
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If you want to get pictures of the kids to post on a website or other media bring consent forms. This is a rule I didn't think about with the class I did so I don't have any pictures of it. <br />
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That's it. Thanks for reading and good luck on your next Ship in Bottle. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-14274604873866136132013-07-16T22:26:00.000-06:002013-07-16T22:26:32.376-06:0020 Questions with David FellinghamOver the past year or so I've found that we ship in bottle builders are quite a unique group. I thought it would be fun to get to know my fellow builders a little better and decided on a good old game of twenty questions. So first off we have 20 questions with David Fellingham. <br />
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="line-height: 150%; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What is your name? <o:p></o:p></div>
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David Fellingham<o:p></o:p></div>
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</span><!--[endif]-->Where in general are you from? <o:p></o:p></div>
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I grew up in
Iowa and presently live in California<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->3.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->How long have you been building ships in
bottles? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I’m not sure, at least 30 years. I have been interested
in sailing ships, ship models and nautical history for over 50 years – my first
scratch build was at age 9 from a scrap piece of 1 x 4, a tin can and two short
pieces of small diameter pipe – the Civil War <i>Monitor</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->4.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What got you into ship in bottle building?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
My initial
interest in sailing ships, nautical history and ship models began with reading
C. S. Forester’s Hornblower series when I was 8 years old.. Later, work had me
moving quite frequently, which is not very conducive to building ship models. I
came across a book in a bookstore about building ships in bottles; seemed to be
a perfect way to continue my interest in ship models while remaining mobile –
all my tools, supplies and the current project could be packed and transported
in a medium size tackle box.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->5.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What was the first ship in bottle you ever
built?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
A generic late 19<sup>th</sup> century two-masted
schooner from the SIB book I bought.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->6.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What was your favorite build?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
My favorite build has always been the one I had just
completed until I start a new one, then the current project would become my
favorite. I gave away almost all my SIBs (or lost them during moves). I
completely lose interest in finished projects when I am working on a new one.
That’s why I still don’t have any of my own. The most fun SIB was a submarine in
a bottle – a sea with a very small periscope. Almost everyone who saw it picked
up the bottle and turned it over and over looking for the rest of the sub.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->7.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What do you think makes your ships in bottles
unique?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
Perhaps my attention to detail. I think the sea for my waterline
models (the only kind of SIB I do) is more accurate to reality than almost any
I have seen. For several years, my work was on offshore oil platforms off the
southern California coast in deep water far from shore, which is the kind of
sea where sailing ships spent 99.99% of their time. Most of that work included
a journey by boat of as much as two hours, one way, to and from the platform
every day. I had the opportunity to study and memorize the ocean’s appearance
under just about all conditions from calm and flat to 40 mph winds and 30 foot
waves (from trough to peak) which was just about the limit of what the crew
boats could handle. Most people think deep-water seas look like the surf at a
beach – but the only similarity between the two is that they are both salty and
wet.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->8.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What types of ships do you prefer?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
In general, I prefer pure sailing ships. At present, I
find myself most interested in the smaller warships of the early 1800s up to
the time just before the introduction of steam. My favorite ships are topsail
schooners (aka Baltimore Clippers) with a very radical mast rake that makes
them look like they’re doing 10 knots even at anchor.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->9.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What is your favorite part of ship in bottle
building?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I enjoy solving the unique problems presented by each
build. I also enjoy the rigging when I get to see the results of all the
different pieces coming together into a whole.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->10.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Is there a design or method that you use that
you are particularly proud of?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I am very pleased with the box joint mast hinges I
developed that are invisible when the mast is erected unless the viewer knows
what to look for.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->11.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->Have you had any instances where a build went
horribly wrong? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
Of course! Maybe not “horribly” wrong but I have had
difficult problems crop up more frequently than I care to remember getting a ship
in the bottle or setting up the masts. Each time the problems occurred because
I failed to plan ahead well enough or to do a trial fit with the hull, bare masts
and minimum rigging to check that everything fits and test the mast erection. On one occasion, I omitted
the test and later found that the main mast was too tall after the fore mast
was set and glued. I had a lot of rigging and several spars to replace by the
time I got the ship out of the bottle. I ALWAYS make a trial fit since that
disaster.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->12.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What are some of your favorite materials to use?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I fabricate many things from wire as fine as 45 gauge. I am
also very pleased with a brand of fly tying thread I found. On my current
build, I found that the fly tying thread can be taken apart into the twisted
yarns that were twisted together to make the thread and I will use those yarns
for ratlines when I get to that point on my current build. The yarns, at less
than .001 inch diameter, work out to be the right size for 5/8 inch rope at
1/640 scale. I also like paper stiffened with ca glue in a variety of detail
applications.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->13.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What are some of the most unusual materials
you’ve used in a build?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I once used human hair to rig a SIB in a glass
airline-size liquor bottle. I will never do that again because hair is very
difficult to work with in almost every regard.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->14.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What creative tools have you created?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
I make many
special purpose tools for working inside the bottles as the need arises.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->15.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What books do you recommend for ship in bottle
building?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
Just about any book on building SIBs covers the basics
well enough for a beginner and provide a foundation for the rest of the
learning process, which will never end. I have learned more in the last year
after meeting other SIB builders through the internet than in the previous
thirty. <i>Shipbuilding in Miniature</i> by
Donald McNarry, although not about SIBs, has a wealth of information about
miniature ship modeling techniques that are adaptable to SIBs.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->16.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What is the most interesting bottle you have
found?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
A bottle is analogous to a painter’s canvas or a picture
frame as far as I am concerned. I feel that complex, ornate or extremely unusual
bottles distract the viewer from what is important – the ship inside the
bottle. I feel the same way about display stands and exterior decoration. I
believe strongly in the KISS principle – “Keep It Simple, Stupid.” The only
criteria I have for bottles are clarity, uniform thickness for minimal
distortion, usable interior space and the inside diameter and length of the
neck. I found sources for laboratory glass which is what I intend to use from
now on. The only exception I would consider is a classic Pinch bottle.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->17.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]--> What’s
the most unique place or way you have found a bottle?<o:p></o:p></div>
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not applicable, see #16<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->18.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What is your favorite response to the question,
“How did you get it in there?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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I thought of several smart-ass responses over the years
but never use them. I explain the basics simply and concisely.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->19.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What ships are on your to do list?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="line-height: 150%;">
I don’t have a “to do” list as such. I have a mental list
of ships that intrigue me for any number of reasons as possible future builds.
At some point during a build in progress, I find myself thinking about what to
build next – usually while working on some of the boring, repetitious details
that occupy only a part of my attention. Eventually one or two of the
“possibles” rises to the surface, so to speak, and I start the necessary
research. My next build is going to be a conventional wood ship model from a
kit – Caldercraft’s <i>Cruizer</i>, a
British brig of war from the Napoleonic Wars modified slightly into one of the
other 105 brigs built from the same plans in that period. It will be an
interesting change to work on a relatively huge 1/64 scale model after working
at 1/640 scale on my current project. I’m considering building the same brig
from scratch in a large bottle concurrently.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->20.<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span><!--[endif]-->What are you currently working on?<o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="line-height: 24px; text-indent: -0.25in;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="line-height: 150%;">
I am currently building the Chilean Navy School Ship <i>Esmeralda</i> at 1/640 scale. <i>Esmeralda</i> is a four masted barquentine
and the second longest and tallest conventional sailing ship in the world. Photo
albums of progress photos are posted on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/125786360859225/" target="_blank">Ship in Bottle Builders</a> and my
personal facebook pages. I also have a comprehensive build log for <i>Esmeralda</i> on the <a href="http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/141-esmeralda-by-dfellingham-bottle-chilean-navy-training-ship-1640/" target="_blank">Model Ship World</a>
website<i>.</i></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-84114723623557723732013-07-10T22:16:00.000-06:002013-07-10T22:16:21.164-06:00America's Cup FiascoThis post has nothing to do with ship in bottle building so if you don't care for the Americas Cup just skip to the previous post. Just thought I'd air some frustration. <br />
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Well I was very excited for the America's cup. I love the idea behind the AC72's and they are really a beautiful and fast sailing ship. I was really looking forward to seeing them race on Sunday....then on Tuesday ....now I still am. Trouble is there is drama behind the scenes that has made for some pretty lonely one boat racing. It's kind of like watching a sword fighter battle the air or a dancer do the salsa with out a partner.<br />
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For those that don't know the story I'll try to sum it up best I can. Keep in mind I only started following the Americas Cup a month or ago so I am may not be totally current with history or terminology. The trouble started when the Regatta Director Iain Murray announced some new safety rules a week before the race. These included things like last minute adjustments to foils heavier boats and deeper rudders for better control. Sounds all well and good except that Luna Rasa and New Zealand protested the changes and now Luna Rasa is waiting for an international jury to decide whether it's fair or not before they race. This lead to more finger pointing and drama leaving New Zealand to race alone.<br />
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At first I wanted to sympathize with the protest since changing major aspects of the ship a week before the race is pretty screwed up. Looking further into it though I understand the need for the rule change. The AC72 is a 7 ton ship that regularly sails faster than 40 knots, or close to 50 mph for us land lubbers. With the increase of speed and size also comes a decrease in control. Since the ships use a hydro foil and raise up on their rudders the surface area of the rudder becomes even less which of coarse means less control. This had lead to the two of the ships flipping over and even the tragic loss of Artemis Teams crew member Andrew Simpson on May 9th. So between May 9th and the start of the races in July they have been investigating the causes and finding ways to prevent them. They came up with 37 new safety rules and implemented the a week before the race. Could this have been done sooner? Or could they have talked more with the teams before announcing new rules all of the sudden? Welll....who knows I'm just a couch potato captain waiting to see a good race.<br />
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I will point out though that this is nothing new to the Americas Cup. There have been times when they have spent more times in court rooms arguing than they spent on the water actually racing. It sounds ridiculous but you have to keep in mind what the Americas Cup races actually mean. It's not like the Olympics where they are trying to find the best sailing team. Or like drag races trying to find the fastest car. The Americas Cup is all about winning and holding onto the Americas Cup. This is why the New York Yacht Club held onto it for 132 years. He who holds the cup sets the rules. In this case Oracle Team USA. <br />
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Really the mess the Americas Cup is in falls on Oracle. I think they reached a bit far on deciding to use the AC72's. The cost of the ships has forced the majority of the teams to drop out leaving only four. Had we more teams in the race we may have actually seen a race by now. It's obvious that the AC72 is cutting edge sailing technology but I think it needs more testing and adjusting to gain the mix of control and speed it's really capable of. The races this year would have fared better if they would have added foiling technology to the AC45 and ran with that. At the very least I think we'd have more teams in the race. <br />
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Of coarse what does this couch potato captain know. Can you really blame Oracle for pushing for the fastest craziest ship they could? It took 132 years to loose the cup from New York it could very well do the same some where else. So when you get a chance to set the rules why not run with it? Except that the America's cup has become more than a bunch of rich guys racing overly expensive yachts. It's become a money maker. The reason they switched from the mono hull yachts to the multi hull catamarans was to bring the race closer to shore and which allows for spectators to watch the race. With spectators comes money. Team apparel sales, ticket sales, concert sales. As a business the Americas Cup can do very well. Unless you can't get the race started with more then one boat.<br />
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I read an <a href="http://blog.sfgate.com/americascup/2013/07/10/louis-vuitton-reduces-sponsorship-for-americas-cup/" target="_blank">article</a> recently where Louis Vuitton is asking the Americas Cup for a refund of 3 million dollars. I guess the fiasco has left the sales of their 11,000 dollar America's Cup watches as low as the fans disappointment. On the bright side if this keeps up maybe I can afford one. I really wanted to like the Americas Cup. Last year was so incredible. The AC72s are really incredible. Putting the two together would be spectacular. I guess I'll just have to wait and see. We're only a few days in. There's time to turn this around and still have some incredible racing. Mean while enjoy a piece of last years racing. If you haven't seen it already it's a ton of fun to watch.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-7534971996937364172013-07-08T22:28:00.000-06:002013-07-08T22:28:15.807-06:00Seagulls"You'll go a long way before you see seagulls in bottles." - George Fulfit<br />
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<div>
This concept behind this post started with the documentary "<a href="http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/steady_as_she_goes" target="_blank">Steady as She Goes</a>" about George Fulfit a ship in bottle builder who made a trade mark of putting seagulls in his bottles. </div>
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I watched this video a long time ago and had always kept the idea in the back of my mind. I saw that George carved his seagulls and made the wings out of Styrofoam. The seagulls worked well for his bottle but they seemed to be to big for the ones I was building. Months later I saw seagulls again in a bottle by <a href="http://www.shipinbottles.com/special-scenes.html" target="_blank">Heather Rodgers</a>. Again I wondered how this was done. Heather's answer was simple. The seagulls are paper built up with paint. </div>
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I decided to experiment with idea it came out so good I used it as a finishing touch for my recent Yacht America. </div>
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The first thing to do when making a seagull to go into your bottle is get the right shape. I did a quick Google search on seagull outlines to get the right idea. They are actually quiet simple, point for a head curving wings and a fan like tail. Once I got the general shape I found I could draw the wings head or tail in different ways to get different mid flight type poses. <br />
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Once the seagull is drawn I start on the wing color. Mostly because it's easier to do before the gull is cut out. There are many different types of gulls so they can be any variety of colors. The ones I've seen most often though have grey wing with black tips. I draw in the grey with a pencil making it as feathery as possible and then draw deep black streaks on the tips of the wings with a black colored pencil. Once that is done I cut the seagull out with an exato knife.<br />
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Now it's time to get out the paint. I use acrylics since they wash out with water and are so easy to use. They also have a way of clumping when you paint over a surface multiple times which is good and bad. For seagulls it's a good thing. I put a nice big glob of white paint on the body and let it dry if my seagul is still looking a little flat I add another one and let it dry until I have a nice looking gull. <br />
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I then move on to the beak and feet. Sometimes I use orange for this sometimes yellow just depends on what I want at the time. With the gulls being so small I just dip a toothpick in the paint and then dab it onto the beak and press in two dabs for the feet. Chances are no one will see the feet but it's fun to know they are there. The last part is folding the wings. I fold the wings where they connect with the body then round them out like they are catching the wind. This is important in that they will be glued to the bottle by the wing tip. Now they are ready to fly. <br />
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The last part is the most tricky and is probably best done with an ear polypus. Since mine broke I've been stuck using coat hangers so I made one that cradles the seagull while I get it in position. I use super glue to glue the seagull to the side of the bottle where I want it to be flying around. Put just a dab of glue on the side of the wing and touch it to the side of the bottle where you want the gull. Then hold very very still. Super glue and glue in general has a weird tendency to not dry when it's moving. I also will note to be very careful putting glue on the sides of your bottle. If to much glue is applied it can distort the glass and distract from the seagull and the ship. <br />
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Also a word of caution with super glue. Normal grocery store super glue which is what I use has a lot of fumes. If you cork the bottle before the glue is dry the fumes fog up the inside of the bottle and is very hard to clean. If you use super glue leave the bottle open with the top facing up to let the fumes out. I let it sit like this three to five minutes while the glue dries. Hold the gull in place until it looks like the wing is firmly glued to the bottle. If you end up getting some unwanted glue on the side of the bottle don't worry about it. It's inevitable with seagulls. Get a long dowel and attach an exacto knife at a 45 degree angle at the end. Once the glue dries use the blade to scrape off the unwanted glue.<br />
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Now slowly pull the wire out until your well clear of the seagull. With the gull being so small the paper holds it's weight on the wing and the gull appears to be flying around the bottle. I didn't have a whole lot of time so the gulls I made for this post aren't as good as they can get. Have patience and work with it and you can get some pretty good looking seagulls. <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-5156855054840179132013-07-04T12:56:00.002-06:002013-07-04T12:56:40.022-06:00America's CupI'm so excited for the 34th America's Cup. The new AC72's are some of the most fascinating ships I've seen. It will be a lot of fun to see them race. Check them out. <br />
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For more info check out <a href="http://www.americascup.com/" target="_blank">http://www.americascup.com/</a>.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-73103348050597211412013-04-28T23:35:00.000-06:002013-04-28T23:38:57.913-06:00The Wreck of the BrigantineI've been so busy with life I haven't been able to put together a post. I wanted to put something up so people know I'm still out here so I went through some old photo's and came up with a short something to put out there. <br />
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First a few shameless plugs on upcoming posts and things. I'm hoping to have a post up soon about putting seagulls in bottles. I still have to get some photo's done and I'll have it up as soon as I can. </div>
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Also if you've seen my gallery lately you may have seen my latest ship the Santa Maria. I hope to do a post on that one as well but not until after September since it will be featured in the Bottle Shipwright a magazine created by the Ship in Bottle Association of America. For more info on the Bottle Shipwright or to become a member of SIBAA check out the <a href="http://www.shipsinbottles.org/index.html" target="_blank">SIBAA website.</a> </div>
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So now a couple very old pictures. This is a brigantine I built quiet a while ago. Keep in mind this was early in my learning of the craft so the ship is not that great. At least by my current standards. </div>
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I show this to point out that some times things go wrong. In this case horribly wrong. I was trying to use a technique where I would pull the masts into place using a line attached to the base of the mast that then ran into the hole for the mast and out the bottom of the ship. The technique worked great at first. The ship was very easy to insert into the bottle. The only problem with it was the amount of lines coming out of the bottle was tremendous and beyond what I could handle at the time. </div>
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I began tightening the lines and got the foremast into place but couldn't keep all the lines tight. I tried to resolve this by gluing a few lines and cutting them off. Trouble is I glued the wrong line and the spanker mast would not come up at all. I worked on it for a few hours before I decided enough was enough and there was nothing I could do. At the time I didn't have the equipment to cut the lines that far into the bottle so I felt my only option in correcting the mistake would be to just pull it out and hope it didn't break to bad. </div>
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I got it to the bottle neck and got some pliers on it and pulled it out. It all but shattered. The back stays got pulled too tight and tore the bulwarks off the ship. Masts and yards broke into splinters. To fix the ship now would be to rebuild it altogether. </div>
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At that point I was done with the ship. I had spent to much time to have it end so horribly. So I kept what scraps were left and moved on to other projects. I eventually came back to it and realized it didn't look like much any ways so it was finally disposed of. My point of this post though is some times stuff happens. A build goes horribly wrong or busts into pieces and then never sees the light of day, but you know, that's okay. To perfect your craft you have to just keep going. </div>
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I learned a lot from this failed brigantine. It taught me to stretch my abilities and where to draw the line. I learned what worked for me and what didn't, like a too many lines coming out of the bottle. Each ship after has been the same. I try something new adapt it if it works and leave it if it doesn't. My hope is to make each build better then the last. </div>
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There's only one thing I could have done differently with the brigantine which I probably should have. Which is to stuff the piece's back in the bottle push them into the sea and call it a shipwreck in a bottle. The fun of ship in bottle building is that even when you screw it up, it works. </div>
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Good luck and keep learning. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-85603032993174851112013-02-13T00:50:00.002-07:002013-02-15T01:31:47.393-07:00Building The HMS BountyI am long over due a new post and have been contemplating what to write next. There is actually a lot of new techniques I have picked up in the last while due to a community build in the SIB community.<br />
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I'm sure most have heard now of the sad sinking of the HMS Bounty in hurricane Sandy and with it the tragic loss of her Captain Robin Wallbridge and crew Claudine Christian. For me it was an instance of you don't know what you had until you lost it. In truth I barely knew the ship existed previous to her sinking. I was soon awaken from my obliviousness as the model ship building community took the news very hard. I've read many posts of sadness, commemoration and memories of visiting the ship. <br />
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I guess it's no surprise that I never knew much about the Bounty. I have always lived in one land locked state or another. What I found though was that I didn't grow up seeing this ship on the ocean but seeing it on the silver screen. From Treasure Island to Pirates of the Caribbean I had seen this ship several times. I didn't know the ship but yet I did. <br />
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The SIB Facebook forum was no different in lament and commemoration of the HMS Bounty and her lost crew members. Photos, memories and plans filled the forum. It was then suggested that a community build be done in commemoration of the HMS Bounty. The rules were simple. Build the Bounty and post your progress. Size, plan, and length of time didn't matter. Which I think is the true beauty of the ship in bottle art. The only constraint is it has to go into a bottle. So a bunch of us began our logs and started posting progress.<br />
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SIB builders on the forum have since been building the Bounty. Greg Alvey, who created and updates an incredible site www.folkartinbottles.com, created a page where all of the current builds can be seen together. Here's the link. <a href="http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty" target="_blank">http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty </a><br />
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The great thing about the community build is it has created a way to learn and try new techniques from more experienced SIB builders. I have been able to glean information I would never have thought of. Some of these new techniques I will include in this post. <br />
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I started the usual way by carving out the hull. I decided on doing a really small build. I had been reading a lot on miniature SIB's and figured I'd try it out. <br />
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I then worked on the forecastle. I ended up cutting match sticks to splinters and gluing the splinters on the ship. Other builders used styrene which I may have to try out. <br />
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I continued using match sticks to create the channels and chain plates. <br />
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I painted the ship with acrylics and after checking it against a few photos I decided that my bulwarks were to high. So as I cut the top of the ship down to size. <br />
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I did worry a little that the gun ports would not be big enough to put the cannons through but they ended up ok. You can also see in these photo's a much nicer deck then I usually have. The great part about the community build is that I was able to get ideas from other builders doing the same ship. As I watched Cecil Tiller build his ship I noticed his deck planking looked great. So I asked how he did it. He told me to take clear finger nail polish and coat the deck. After it dry's use a razor blade to cut the lines where the planking should go. Then stain the deck. The interesting thing about this method is that the stain darkens everything but where the nail polish is. Creating awesome and very visable contrast in the deck planking. To see more of Cecil's work click the link <a href="http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty/223-cecil-tiller-building-log" target="_blank">http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty/223-cecil-tiller-building-log </a><br />
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I went on to add the bow and the deck furniture. The helm was made by cutting a seed bead in half. This was kind of crazy but it worked. The cannons are pieces of wire. I build the launch out of match sticks using the same method I outlined in a former post "<a href="http://www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/2012/09/ready-long-boats.html" target="_blank">Ready the Longboats</a>." The winch was made from match sticks and bamboo. The great thing about bamboo is that it remains strong even when it's cut very thin. The capstan is just a splinter glued in a hole with the top painted red. <br />
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The hatches were tricky and I stumbled upon a new technique in creating them. I noticed that Greg Alvey did a terrific job on his hatches and I asked how he did it. He explained that he took the picture of the deck plan stained the hatches and glued the paper down as the hatch. I couldn't get my printer to print small enough with out the lines running together so I initially thought I will just stain some paper and no one would notice there were no lines in the hatch anyways. As I was gluing the paper down I pressed it down firmly with the exacto knife I was using to position it. I noticed the knife left a small divot in the paper. I then started lining up divots until I had all the lines in the hatches. <br />
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I like to add anchors on all of my ships and the Bounty was no different. This time I got some smaller wire and made them particularly small. </div>
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It was then off to the rigging yard. The masts and yards were all made from bamboo with paper and paint making up the platforms. I tied a lot of thread blocks since the masts were to small to drill through. <br />
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I wanted to go with a more realistic rigging but then chickened out and used a usual SIB rigging. This constitutes the sheets all running aft to either the stay or mast behind the yards they control. That sentence was a bit technical for a beginners blog. Kudos to those that understood that. In lay mans terms the tan lines that control the sails are run towards the back of the ship. <br />
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My rigging was a little different with this ship. I used a shallow hole to set the masts instead of the usual hinge method. This gave me a little more flexibility getting the ship in the bottle. I made it so the masts still folded backwards but used a slightly different technique on the mizzen mast. Since the forward stay ended at the base of the fore mast and I didn't want to drill a hole through my ship I had the line exit the top of the mizzen mast. I did this specifically because of the bottle and sea method I was using would allow it. Typically I wouldn't rig the line that way. <br />
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I found a couple new methods on the shrouds that worked out well. I had recently seen a technique where the back stays are weaved back and forth through the ship. I wanted to try this technique but the size of the ship and angle I would have to drill made it all but impossible to go through the ship. So I drilled three holes below my chain plates where the chains would have been attached to the ship. I bent a small piece of wire a U shape with a gap just big enough to put thread through the U. I glued the wire in the hole and bent it upwards to act as the chain. I tried to make them so the came just below the bottom of the chain plate. I then threaded my back stays through the U of the chains back and forth as I had seen in the threading technique. With the ship being so small I only had to dab paint on the lines going over the chain plate to make it look like they were going through the chain plate. <br />
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The other method I used for the shrouds above the platforms. I really got tired of gluing tiny piece of thread to the back stays and decided to make a jig that would help me make ratlines. I tried using pins and wood and things but they all just failed. Then I found tape. I used my finger nail polish bottle to wrap masking tape around so that it was sticky side up. I then carefully measured and applied thread to the sticky side of the tape with three lines to create the stays and a row of lines to create the rat lines. Once they were all pressed firmly onto the tape I slid the bottle out leaving my rat lines in mid air attached to the tape. I poured on the super glue and blew off the excess so I didn't have any between the lines. Once it dried I cut out my shrouds and glued them onto my masts. <br />
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Once the rigging was done I used drawing paper to make my sails. It was probably a bit thick but it holds it's shape well which gives it a good full of wind effect. <br />
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Once the sails were complete it was time to build the sea and bottle the ship. For the sea I used a technique from a video posted on the facebook site a while back. Robert Little explains the technique better then I can so I will let him tell you. The explanation starts at the 4:40 second mark.<br />
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Using Robert Little's technique this is what I came up with. I used cardboard instead of wood since it was more readily available. </div>
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Once that was done I put the ship in the bottle. The bottle I originally planned the Bounty to go into a light bulb but it didn't clean out well so I used a Christmas ornament turned upside down. The Bounty is a little small for it but not overly so. </div>
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You can see with the sea being able to move around in the bottle why I didn't worry about having lines coming off the front and back of the ship. <br />
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Here you see the ship is all set up and ready for the finishing touches on the sea. I added a little clay to make it appear to cut through the water as well as a small wake behind her. <br />
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Here is the completed HMS Bounty in a bottle. I cut a hole in a block of wood and glued the top, now bottom of the ornament into it. I then painted on the name as well as my name and year completed. <br />
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This one was a lot of work. The small size and amount of detail put it made for a very long build. At least longer then I'm used to. In then end I'm pleased with the results. Thank you for reading and if you haven't yet seen the other HMS Bounty build logs please check them out. They are all very well done. <a href="http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty">http://folkartinbottles.com/workshop/building-the-hms-bounty</a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-78890723888937310172012-12-08T07:48:00.001-07:002012-12-08T23:34:40.472-07:00Rigging the Yacht AmericaWith the presentation to the Rocky Mountain Shipwrights a week away the Yacht America is finished and ready to go. I thought I'd take this opportunity to show her off and talk a little bit about rigging. <br />
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There are several ways to rig ships in bottles. I chose the simplest form for the America which is the hinge method. <br />
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In this photo you can clearly see the hinge at the base of the mast. This hing allows the masts fold back so that the ship fits in the bottle. After the ship is in the forward stays are pulled tight raising the masts back into position. There's a lot that goes into creating a ship that can do this but before I go over that I want to go over some very basic parts of rigging.<br />
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There are three basic parts of rigging. The back stays the forward stays and the sheets. The stays hold the masts straight up and down with the back stays pulling the masts backwards and the fore stays pulling them forwards. The sheets move the sails in order to best catch the wind.<br />
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In building rigging in this method I recommend starting with the back stays. To me these are the most important of the three. They control not only the forward back ward angle of the mast but also the left and right. The lines have to be precise or the ship will not look right. If they are to loose the mast will lean forward. If they are too tight they will lean backward. If on side is to tight or to loose they will sit sideways. You need to get it where you want it glue it down and hope it works. They can try your patience a bit.<br />
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The next step is the fore stays. These run from the top of the masts to the bow and out of the bottle. They are then used to pull the masts up when the ship is in the bottle. Once the mast's are in position the fore stays are glued down and cut as close to the bow as possible. The tricky part about fore stays is getting them to run to a point where they can be easily cut and glued while in the bottle. To do this you will either need to drill holes in the mast for the lines to run through or build thread blocks. In my opinion thread blocks are the way to go. It's hard to drill though a sanded toothpick and if your not careful the mast you spent all that time sanding and painting will break and you'll be starting all over making a new one. Thread blocks eliminate this problem. I've posted this link before but, in case you haven't seen it John Fox III, whose America ship in bottle I heavily based this one on, has posted a great video on how to create thread blocks. <br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/46158123">http://vimeo.com/46158123</a><br />
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Finally the sheets. In a real ship I dare say there is no such thing as a decorative rope. Each line has a use and a purpose. SIB's are different in that sheet's are typically decorative and serve no function in folding or unfolding the masts. It is smart though to be aware of them while you build. It's horrible not being able to fold your mast's back because a decorative sheet line got in the way. Typically with SIB's the sheet's move to the back of the ship so they fold back with the masts.<br />
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It's important before building your rigging to have a plan especially when the rigging gets complex like a square rig or my recent stay sail schooner the Star Flyer. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuwyccmqtfb3AYKXr_NYGYzfWY3H36Jnzv4BDf2vLPSnWsGc4dAUy_CTGoLuTGd98PwslVg_RDIQRVAw_PTLpjUtesFGib8HBsWsdHizbuj4KR9sK80EFGjpWhnndtQv7rRUorgrXu8bdM/s1600/America+004crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuwyccmqtfb3AYKXr_NYGYzfWY3H36Jnzv4BDf2vLPSnWsGc4dAUy_CTGoLuTGd98PwslVg_RDIQRVAw_PTLpjUtesFGib8HBsWsdHizbuj4KR9sK80EFGjpWhnndtQv7rRUorgrXu8bdM/s640/America+004crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I tried to make this picture as big as possible so you can see the details. This is the rigging plan for the America. Filled in circles are places where the lines are tied down to the masts. Open circles are thread blocks. Arrows are where the lines run out of the bottle. <br />
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The last thing I will talk about in this post is the flag. Almost all pictures of the America I found have her flying a flag so I decided to include it. I did a little research to make sure I had the right one. <br />
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The America won the America's Cup in 1851 which is also the year the US got it's 31st state. So I did a little research and found a 31 star flag. I then used Photoshop to create a version that could be folded in half.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Q3PyXDGgollReECUkeALV77gYyxuEYS5Oj6cJZZrMWj0nDPNPp90H74YuOvGNnfAFRsn02hnmZCuiRzA10nq3EwtH1aq0M95EVDWAwuVmVHF1XWCM3P-tjsr3XnTfL3M7S1gUh-OeDwq/s1600/31+star+flag1851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="124" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Q3PyXDGgollReECUkeALV77gYyxuEYS5Oj6cJZZrMWj0nDPNPp90H74YuOvGNnfAFRsn02hnmZCuiRzA10nq3EwtH1aq0M95EVDWAwuVmVHF1XWCM3P-tjsr3XnTfL3M7S1gUh-OeDwq/s320/31+star+flag1851.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I ran a line between to thread blocks and glued knot inside the fold of the flag. This allows the flag to be raised or lowered to find the best look. I personally like it raised high. Here's a few other flags I've used in the past. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKa-HenD96NxY2e2Xni6vgquhr2gRB7wKcnUNzBgvtisQtmZ2hH4pEbnxR5Ds0F0micHaDM-2BqlxpD10H3If36IRyOTZ_sXRl5YBvFXSQekRpFKN7BUX4ZN5etyNvxnKhpQJ6Zl4Rzv9/s1600/Pirate+Flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="84" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKa-HenD96NxY2e2Xni6vgquhr2gRB7wKcnUNzBgvtisQtmZ2hH4pEbnxR5Ds0F0micHaDM-2BqlxpD10H3If36IRyOTZ_sXRl5YBvFXSQekRpFKN7BUX4ZN5etyNvxnKhpQJ6Zl4Rzv9/s320/Pirate+Flag.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Also the eagle on the back of the America. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg6t5Cs97LQCE1hVDdbKeOsoNaTwud-ZHpm_O2inOiBTWBaWMs6Dg2c-B7XfLMiJqPeoj67YriitQkWY2edtyTif1YZDgGivS5cgC8q4Ga3v4SAi_61WEV_JdmzMLaslGB4fRqwu_X-vg/s1600/am_stern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg6t5Cs97LQCE1hVDdbKeOsoNaTwud-ZHpm_O2inOiBTWBaWMs6Dg2c-B7XfLMiJqPeoj67YriitQkWY2edtyTif1YZDgGivS5cgC8q4Ga3v4SAi_61WEV_JdmzMLaslGB4fRqwu_X-vg/s320/am_stern.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This one I glued on the back and painted around so it would blend in. It will probably not be able to be seen after the ship is in the bottle but it's still a fun detail. </div>
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I also included some other details on deck including life boats and the iconic cockpit around the tiller the America is known for. </div>
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Thank you for reading about my yacht America. I will update this post after the meeting and include the finished bottled ship. If your in the Denver area come join us on December 15th at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. 2553 S. Colorado Blvd. Denver CO 80222. </div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-50657245284444812462012-11-20T00:10:00.000-07:002014-03-29T21:39:45.942-06:00On High SeasI recently joined a ship building club in the Denver area and it has been a blast. It's nice to find out there's people as crazy about ships as I am. Here's their website for any one interested. <a href="http://rockymountainshipwrights.org/">http://rockymountainshipwrights.org</a><br />
The group consists of mainly static ship builders which makes me the only SIB builder. This being the case they have asked that I give a presentation on SIB building at one of the monthly meetings. No pressure right?! I accepted and went to my SIB forums on Yahoo and Facebook for ideas. After some discussion I settled on the Yacht America. The America was the first winner of the One Hundred Pound Sovereign cup which was later renamed the America's Cup after the first ship to win it.<br />
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I will post more photo's of the ship it's self later. What I wanted to go over in this post is putting sea into a bottle. There are many ways of getting sea into a bottle. There are also ways of going with out it all together. In this post I'm going to describe the modeling clay method. <span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19.200000762939453px;"></span><br />
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There are pros and cons to each method of putting sea in a bottle. Some of the con's of modeling clay is that it has a hard time sticking to the glass. For the most part this isn't a problem but I have had one or two bottles where the sea came dislodged and the ship and sea began bouncing around in the bottle creating a huge mess. One thing you can do is push it down hard and hope it sticks. Ninety percent of the time it will. Another method I've had success with is holding the bottle over a hot burner and melting the clay through the bottle. It only takes a few seconds over the heat to melt the clay enough that it sticks to the glass. Do one half of the bottle at a time use oven mitts and be careful not to burn yourself. <br />
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Another con I've had is the temptation to push the ship down into the clay and let the clay hold the ship. It worked a few times but for the most part the ship comes dislodged and again bounces around in the bottle. You have to glue your ship down no matter what. I use white glue since it doesn't fog up the glass. So far I haven't had any problems with it. <br />
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The pros of modeling clay is the shape ability of it. I have had a lot of fun shaping waves and white caps through out the bottle. Clay is relatively easy to move around and shape the way you want it. Also it doesn't stick all over your bottle like some putties do and what residue is left is easy to clean. Finally it doesn't take a whole lot of time depending on how much detail you put in it. <br />
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Ok enough jabbering on to the photos!<br />
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This is the bottle I'm going to use. It's a beer bottle I got from a friend. Nothing to special about it really. <br />
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I start by spreading the clay out to determine thickness and size. As with my ships I build big and cut small. <br />
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Here I have cut the sea to size. One important thing to note is the width of the sea. For bottles where the bottom is round like this one it's important to keep the width of the sea small. If the sea is wide it will curve up the sides of the bottle and potentially hide the hull of your ship. If the bottle is rounded keep the seas thin. Also ignore the match stick it's just keeping the bottle from rolling. <br />
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Next fold the clay so it will fit in the bottle. It's imprtant to simply fold and not push it together since you will be unfolding it in the bottle. Try and keep the sides from touching as much as possible. <br />
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Now put it in. This is the easiest part. Just slide it on in. It is important at this part to look at where the clay is going to rest. I don't like having the seam of the bottle obstructing the view of my ships so I turn the bottle so the seam runs across the top and bottom. Then position the clay over the seam. <br />
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Once the clay is in use a coat hanger to unroll it. I put a hook in mine and twist it back and forth until it come open. This will take some patience. <br />
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A good trick I do is once the clay is open far enough flip it over and push it down until it flattens. As soon as it's flat enough position it exactly where you want it. <br />
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The next step is to add the waves. I take my coat hanger and push down and back on the clay so it creates a little mound. Then I pull the top forward to shape a wave. Do this all over until you get the choppiness of the sea that you like. <br />
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Here's just a couple other angles of my now choppy sea. <br />
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Now to add the white caps. Get some white modeling clay an put a tiny amount on the end of your coat hanger. <br />
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Get it in the bottle and press it on to a wave or wherever you would like a white cap. <br />
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Use your hook to shape it until you get the look you like. Use the same push pull method to get a good wave look. <br />
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Now do it all over and get the sea to look the way you like it.<br />
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I forgot to add a space for my ship. Adding this space is easily done out side the bottle but can be done while it's inside as well. I used my coat hanger to pull the middle out. Once the ship is in I will push the sea into the sides until it looks right. I will also use some white clay to make the bow look like it's cutting through the water and to create a wake behind the ship. <br />
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Once the sea is done you can wipe down the inside of the bottle with a dry cloth to get out any residue left by the clay. I just put a cloth on the end of my coat hanger through a bit of a loop. Rebber bands work well to attach it too. I also wash the out side of the bottle and dry it with a dry cloth. Be careful not to get any water inside the bottle it can mess up your clay. Once the ship is ready your all set. <br />
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Thanks for reading! <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-35013873784016588492012-11-01T00:00:00.000-06:002012-11-01T00:39:13.269-06:00The Fly Cutter I recently completed a ship from The Story of Sail by Richard Woodman and Veres Laszlo. The Fly was a ship purchased in 1763 by commissioned by the British Navy to catch smugglers on the English Channel. The large sails made her able to move swiftly in light winds. I would post a picture of the plans but I really don't want to infringe on any copy rights. I do however highly suggest you check out the book Story of Sail. It has a over a thousand plans and great ideas from the beginning of sailing history to modern day.<br />
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I used a couple of new techniques on this one first of which was how I created the hull. Usually I carve the hull from a solid piece of wood but this time I tried an idea from David Luna de Carvalho. Check out his blog here. <a href="http://mardasgarrafas.blogspot.com/2012/06/mares-do-national-maritim-museum-uk.html?spref=fb">http://mardasgarrafas.blogspot.com</a><br />
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I first made a copy of the plans out of the Story of Sail and glued them onto pieces of cardboard. I would have used wood but I didn't have enough at the time. I glued the pieces of cardboard onto a wooden keel and this is what I got.<br />
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I then used match sticks to plank the hull like what was done on the real ship. The trick is using an exacto knife to cut the match sticks thin. Then soak them in water so they become pliable. Once they started bending pretty well I glued them to the card board. After I got the planking was done I cut out the middle of the card board and planked the deck. <br />
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After getting the deck in I added the masts and deck details. At first I planned on using a helm but David pointed out that cutters have tillers so I later changed it out. Helps to have friends that know what their doing. <br />
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The other new technique I used is called thread blocking. Since it's impossible to find block and tackle small enough for a ship of this scale thread blocks are created to act as such. It's hard to explain how to do this with out being able to see it. Luckily John Fox III created a great video that shows how to make them and how they work. I was going to embed the video but it's on Vimeo and wouldn't cooperate. See it by clicking this link. <a href="http://vimeo.com/46158123">http://vimeo.com/46158123</a><br />
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Notice the long boat from my other post. <a href="http://www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/2012/09/ready-long-boats.html" target="_blank">Ready the Longboats!</a><br />
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I used thread blocks on the bow and to rig the gaff and boom to the main mast. I ran the gaff and boom line out the side of the hull. This allowed me to put the rear sail into the bottle first. Once the mast was up I tightened the lines pulling the boom and gaff onto the mast. It sounds simple enough in theory but it took an hour to do just that. In total it took three hours to get this ship set up in the bottle. The final result was well worth it. <br />
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I wish I could show more but I sometimes get too involved building to take pictures. Thank you for reading! <br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com232069 Quarter Horse Rd, Evergreen, CO 80439, USA39.647997323734181 -105.369873046875-8.90234467626582 173.770751953125 88.198339323734189 -24.510498046875tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-1167420865432252042012-10-19T01:11:00.000-06:002012-11-12T09:07:36.823-07:00Ghost Ship in a BottleI've completed two ships since my last post so I thought it's about time to post something about one of them. This one comes by popular demand. The Ghost Ship in a Bottle.<br />
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I came up the idea while on the <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/shipsinbottles/" target="_blank">yahoo forum</a>. Some one mentioned lighting a ship up with UV lights. I decided to explore the idea. I talked to a friend who had some UV LED's and we found that the purple tinted UV lights will not show through a dark root beer bottle but the light bouncing off of a white surface will. So then I took it a step farther and used glow in the dark paint which lights up quiet nicely under the UV light. <br />
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I didn't get any pictures of the ship before I put her in the bottle. The build went fast since I wasn't worried about to many details. So assuming you've already built your ship paint it with glow in the dark paint. I just got some acrylic paint from Walmart for two or three bucks and it works great. I painted almost everything. The sails, the lines, the hull, the masts. The only thing I didn't paint were the cannons and the anchor on the front. The idea behind this was to let the light around it glow and the cannons and anchor would appear as just a silhouette creating a more dramatic look. As you can see the anchor worked fine but with out a second LED behind the ship the cannons are out of sight.<br />
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Another part of building this ship was the holes in the sails. I used a canvas type cloth for the sails. Pinching small sections I used scissors to cut holes and give it the well weathered ragged look. I then just let it fray as canvass does and painted it all in glow in the dark paint. <br />
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Now the fun part. How to make it work. First get yourself some UV LED's. I just went to Radio Shack. They were helpful in letting me know what I needed. If you want them cheap go on eBay. You can buy 300 for less then $5. I don't know if some are better then others I just made sure they were Ultra Violet LED's.<br />
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Along with your LED's you will need a power source. You will have to check the specifications of your LED's to see whats right for what you have. <br />
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You will also need a resistor. Chances are your LED will be like mine and it won't light until it hits 3.7 volts. Now try to find a 3.7 volt battery but don't go over the highest specification which is under 6. Doing so will burn out your LED. Since there was no such battery so I got a six volt battery and used a resistor to bring it down to the required maximum voltage. Here's a tool to help you do that. <a href="http://ledcalculator.net/" target="_blank">http://ledcalculator.net/</a><br />
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I then searched YouTube to help me figure out how to put everything together. Here's the video I used. It's a bit long so skip to the parts you need. The important thing is he helps you understand how to identify the negative and positive parts of an LED and where the resistors should go. Best place to start is the two minute 21 second mark. <br />
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Now that you've got the wiring figure out it's time to build it into the bottle. I decided to use the cork to hold my battery and my LED in place. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfG8AoM5O4WnpDtNzFX5AMCHh_gwRQuSMqq5OJtmLZixPHrb9AonRmc0EUOYCZTjBYSFy7YVGayUmGLC0g__CmY9SyOK-mTMV8_x1KpEyPczXYHJSYtwbIsVbqLXOt0Xo46WTwILJJ-fr/s1600/GS+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfG8AoM5O4WnpDtNzFX5AMCHh_gwRQuSMqq5OJtmLZixPHrb9AonRmc0EUOYCZTjBYSFy7YVGayUmGLC0g__CmY9SyOK-mTMV8_x1KpEyPczXYHJSYtwbIsVbqLXOt0Xo46WTwILJJ-fr/s320/GS+003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the wire that connects to positive side of that battery and completes the circuit. It's a very crude method but it works. Some one with more skill and means can definitely make an improvement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Yd8Ezacopn_BHI8QDLmZBuEGyxr5ZBYf2SEBfHLr2kMnzNfXBZaXDRuh4WBdn8KIRisJoTN1LNf4FDjGnIJX-IoHVvbZQ_SS3hGwpmcjuQOYcqcnSnYYwpjp66b5yl96Rz4aY1WNNW4t/s1600/GS+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Yd8Ezacopn_BHI8QDLmZBuEGyxr5ZBYf2SEBfHLr2kMnzNfXBZaXDRuh4WBdn8KIRisJoTN1LNf4FDjGnIJX-IoHVvbZQ_SS3hGwpmcjuQOYcqcnSnYYwpjp66b5yl96Rz4aY1WNNW4t/s320/GS+004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A few more shots to give you an idea of how I put it together. <br />
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My original plan was to put an LED behind the ship as well so it would be lit from two sides showing front and back. I got it for about two seconds before I lost the connection. I'll keep trying. Some one suggested drilling holes in the bottle with a ceramic drill bit. I may try that. With or with out the other LED I think she looks great. The light you see around the ship is white caps I painted with the glow in the dark paint. I tried to make the sea stand out a little.<br />
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She definitely stands out in the collection.<br />
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My wife is currently writing a short story behind the Ghost Ship in the Bottle. Once it's finished she may post it to her writing blog. To read her blog please go here. <a href="http://kricketwrites.blogspot.com/2012/11/the-ghost-ship-in-bottle.html" target="_blank">The Ghost Ship in a Bottle</a><br />
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If you do plan on building a ghost ship in a bottle I would love to know how it turns out. Email me a picture at <span style="background-color: white; font-family: serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 24px;">siemensbottleingco@gmail.com. Thank you for reading! </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-75057294377006923582012-09-19T00:46:00.000-06:002012-09-19T01:22:04.910-06:00Talk Like a Pirate Day<span style="color: red;">Warning to all my good friends that are just into SIB building for the ships and don't care about certain people who sailed them you may want to skip this post because today I'm talking about...</span><br />
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It be talk like a pirate day and though I be a bit of a mangy land lubber I twill be enjoying it. Truth be told this be my type of holiday. I read a line on the Talk like a pirate day website <a href="http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html">http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html</a> that said, "the point is there is no point." And that's just it. If there ever t'were a day to celebrate the ridiculous and down right fun this be it lads. So grab ye a bottle and a cutlass and let us talk like pirates!<br />
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For those that have not heard the tale, talk like a pirate day came in to be'n in 1995 when two scaly wags named John Baur and Mark Summers were playing a game o racket ball. They t'weren't the most fit of pirates and many an arrr was heard that day while swinging away at that scurvy ball. This turned into more pirate lingo and they had such a good time they made a day of it and celebrated talk like a pirate day among friends for many a year after. In 2002 they contacted a columnist and gentleman of fortune by the name of Dave Barry with the idea. Dave loved it and wrote out the story in a column and the international talk like a pirate day spread like a flock of seagulls before a fly'n cannon ball. I won't be go'in to the full story but if ye want to spy more on the tale see the afore mentioned website. <br />
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I've always enjoyed pirates and it t'was Pirates of the Caribbean 4 that got me into ship in bottle building. So thought I, it be only natural that I do a talk like a pirate day post. I thought about showin how to build a pirate ship in a bottle but since I had so recently done that with the <a href="http://www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/2012/08/adventure-pirate-frigate.html" target="_blank">Adventure Frigate</a> I set my weather eye on try'n somethin else. So here be my own tips and tricks to talking like a pirate. <br />
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I often hear such lines as "you scurvy dog" and "avast mateys" put into every day sentences and it always just sounds just a little weak to me. Like, "Ahoy you scurvy dog there is the doughnut shop what do you say we plunder us some doughnuts." It's good but I think it could be just a bit better. Here's how.<br />
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There are three simple words that if switched with three other simple words will improve you pirate speakin abilities from being just a simple man before the mast to a true captain. These words are "is" "it" and "you" and are switched with "be" "that" and "ye". For example "Arrr you scurvy dog, it is the one!" Becomes "Arrrr ye scurvy dog, that be the one!" <br />
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Then the afore mentioned sentence becomes, "Ahoy ye scurvy dog that be the doughnut shop what say ye plunder us some doughnuts." Not only does it sound more piratey but now your talking your friend into getting you doughnuts instead of helping in the plunder. Ye have now risen to the rank of Captain. <br />
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Now if ye be addin these three words to the other pirate phrases found through out the endless seas of the internet ye soon be talkin like an old sea dog. So go have a fun talk like a pirate day ye gentlemen of fortune and thank ye kindly for readin this here blog. Enjoy the below video it be my new favorite tune. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-68135300126014515022012-09-09T00:58:00.000-06:002012-09-09T01:05:03.906-06:00Ready The Long Boats!I stumbled across a new technique while digging through the photo's on the Yahoo forum. I won't mention which one since SIB builders on the forum are a humble folk and don't usually take a liking to drawing attention to them selves and this blog is very public. Did I just say take a liking? Wow too much study for my up coming talk like a pirate day post. Any way if you want to find the inspiration for this post dig into the yahoo forum photos and you'll find it. As well as a lot of other inspiration, the yahoo forum files and photos have a lot of good stuff. <br />
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So this post is all about turning a match stick...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLmbAbgaheNjAdsJRsYOkICUbZm75yxsaNrtqyMXeHjnnD8DZchjLQAR78Uk1Gsvy3p8JuX_dBnvDnT5YRVv7ZgfyrELmVx0BREOytcaKEeyO1j-0BnJ7DUwCgHMJYU0nrA2JGNeJF-uw/s1600/Long+boat+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLmbAbgaheNjAdsJRsYOkICUbZm75yxsaNrtqyMXeHjnnD8DZchjLQAR78Uk1Gsvy3p8JuX_dBnvDnT5YRVv7ZgfyrELmVx0BREOytcaKEeyO1j-0BnJ7DUwCgHMJYU0nrA2JGNeJF-uw/s320/Long+boat+001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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...into a long boat small enough to fit on a dime.<br />
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Long boat's, dingy's, life boats what ever you want to call them they are a fun accessory to ships in bottles. Trouble is making one small enough to look the part. Here is a fairly quick and easy method. I say fairly because lets face it your dealing with super small parts and it can get tricky. <br />
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First take your match stick and mark out the size you want your boat. <br />
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Then sand the end. It is important to leave the boat on the match stick at this point since it gives you a place to hold on while you cut and sand. <br />
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Next use a dremel to cut the spaces between the seats. I usually use three cuts but do what you think looks right. <br />
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The end result should be something like this.</div>
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Once that's done sand down the middle seats so they're just a little bit lower. This makes it look like they are seats in the bottom of the boat. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhay3NcKBRfX_layeRN-1A_-eDzgOK3IPt3sAy5K0LDaJWebfHkExcalqdAWsEEH95rhr25uOVvkTwZbkUbDwn3Z-dX-gGZM4sTsYgt9JidKEYyYEcCAUrToTGNVD7L3BN7uXCA8NPMn17s/s1600/Long+boat+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhay3NcKBRfX_layeRN-1A_-eDzgOK3IPt3sAy5K0LDaJWebfHkExcalqdAWsEEH95rhr25uOVvkTwZbkUbDwn3Z-dX-gGZM4sTsYgt9JidKEYyYEcCAUrToTGNVD7L3BN7uXCA8NPMn17s/s320/Long+boat+006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now get out a separate match stick. This one will be used to create the side of the boat. Use a razor blade to cut a paper thin strip of wood. This may take a few tries. </div>
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Cut out two small strips. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ce-w6oeeUGKGTvIpHELe6Augn7gitK9IyrCfxqEST_A3ADEZbkzB_L1XqcAJgADwARahJ2nTnL1w-ZWchMt2x59cXem3Qxcd_k20N4ozRP2wuSzONvhTYRZTtcR5KZMXov2a2WCfj3B9/s1600/Long+boat+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ce-w6oeeUGKGTvIpHELe6Augn7gitK9IyrCfxqEST_A3ADEZbkzB_L1XqcAJgADwARahJ2nTnL1w-ZWchMt2x59cXem3Qxcd_k20N4ozRP2wuSzONvhTYRZTtcR5KZMXov2a2WCfj3B9/s320/Long+boat+015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cover the whole side of the ship with glue and glue the strips onto the sides. This is important since you'll be sanding on the boat and if they aren't glued tight they can come off. Also glue the strip so it sicks up a little above the top of the match stick. You want it to look like you can actually sit in it. </div>
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Now sand the boat into shape. This is one of the hardest parts since it is so small so be patient with it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelmwSjfO8XkvcyPXeIoVXAF9vAiG4hD-PsRKquIKtjUW7Uh4JtgourV2Su6W2DwoSeVmm74fndh4nWUFhv3XLJp5yDVh_8MbAb6wRcMFku9gVpf1v2YL5rocjNB0kFKMPL1LXHrSIG_HB/s1600/Long+boat+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelmwSjfO8XkvcyPXeIoVXAF9vAiG4hD-PsRKquIKtjUW7Uh4JtgourV2Su6W2DwoSeVmm74fndh4nWUFhv3XLJp5yDVh_8MbAb6wRcMFku9gVpf1v2YL5rocjNB0kFKMPL1LXHrSIG_HB/s320/Long+boat+020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is finally time to cut the boat off the match stick and do the final touch up sanding. You may need to add another strip of wood to the back as well to match the height of the sides. </div>
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Once the boat is off the match stick it will be much harder to handle so try to do most of the sanding while it's on. As far as the back of the boat goes I like to taper up the bottom and sides just a bit to give it a good shape. Pretty much just make it look like a boat. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolwFhT68C5iMcrhIATB6DzLtdKlOkR1U-iUxHQHG9w6x91g-rG6aKEP-gAhv2RbPJvq-J6rSDTNw0tWK35sz2k2ln4mwKh0h552hyphenhyphenYBw3HRBN2lgop7DP5x1KwQamPv9MzumSIBxQbpDg/s1600/Long+boat+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolwFhT68C5iMcrhIATB6DzLtdKlOkR1U-iUxHQHG9w6x91g-rG6aKEP-gAhv2RbPJvq-J6rSDTNw0tWK35sz2k2ln4mwKh0h552hyphenhyphenYBw3HRBN2lgop7DP5x1KwQamPv9MzumSIBxQbpDg/s320/Long+boat+034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Congratulations your done! From here it can be painted stained or just glued onto the ship. </div>
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Thank you for reading and have fun building!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-46574696131926110662012-08-18T08:44:00.000-06:002012-08-18T08:44:32.121-06:00Adventure Pirate FrigateI was thinking of coming up with a new blog post and trying to get pictures of my latest build when it dawned on me. I had not yet posted pictures or explained the finishing touches of what I have now named the Adventure Pirate Frigate. I decided on the name because I used many new techniques and it was quite the adventure putting her all together. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-FyD2sAG1kqlpdNq9uIaO8bdNtN6QXeahqDCztc_wLKDzZpafj5XyAoEjhZnEWjQlEYjiRlKqpOLkEOq7F7v3mFx8eRI2siymKFJJAQz4V799TJmXzFOgSx_x9ufJoK1nEJj1NtQSJ_R/s1600/Frigate+done.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-FyD2sAG1kqlpdNq9uIaO8bdNtN6QXeahqDCztc_wLKDzZpafj5XyAoEjhZnEWjQlEYjiRlKqpOLkEOq7F7v3mFx8eRI2siymKFJJAQz4V799TJmXzFOgSx_x9ufJoK1nEJj1NtQSJ_R/s320/Frigate+done.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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One of the important parts of building this ship is how I attached the masts. I explained in my first post of <a href="http://www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-build-schooner-in-bottle.html" target="_blank">The Dawn</a>, so named because it is the first ship of this blog, the hinge method of attaching masts to the ship. While that is a great method it would have been impossible to use on the Adventure Pirate Frigate because of how much ship I was fitting through such a small hole in the bottle. Through some research and talking to people on forums I found there are actually several methods to attach the mast. I'll go over a few of them.<br />
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Michel Bardet is a french SIB builder who has built for over 40 years. His SIB's are absolutely incredible and have won several awards. If you haven't seen his site please visit it here <a href="http://michel.bardet.pagesperso-orange.fr/indexa.htm">http://michel.bardet.pagesperso-orange.fr/indexa.htm</a>. The reason I bring this up is because his site also has a lot of great building techniques that are easy to understand and it's where I got this picture. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPPTugwzoUg33b__rwZJJYGgueS6foXbls2IQv3sptBn0vvMD38k5mbe-pgViJZTSJ10rgGv1nC6L7-7b5bIRImDIEJKrkIG16LbCdo3ZkB2QOiU-8wL5ROOlJl2K_IErhaj6F66NKkN1m/s1600/Masts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPPTugwzoUg33b__rwZJJYGgueS6foXbls2IQv3sptBn0vvMD38k5mbe-pgViJZTSJ10rgGv1nC6L7-7b5bIRImDIEJKrkIG16LbCdo3ZkB2QOiU-8wL5ROOlJl2K_IErhaj6F66NKkN1m/s320/Masts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These are five different techniques of attaching the mast. I'll quickly explain each one. <br />
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The first method is to drill a small hole in the deck and place the mast in. This can be tricky with your back stays. If the hole is shallow the mast will slide right in and the back stay's will remain tight. To deep and it's hard to get the mast's in unless the back stays are detached from the ship. It does however create a realistic look in that there are no hinges or anything showing how the mast got into the bottle. <br />
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Second method is drilling a hole through the ship and having a guiding line that pulls the mast into place. This can be tricky since it's adding more stings coming out of your bottle and if you get to mixed up your sunk. Which is what happened when I tried this method. It is great though in that the masts can be removed completely from the ship and even put in the bottle separately. <br />
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Third is making a very shallow hole for the mast. I haven't tried this one but I assume you need to have tight stays to keep the mast in place. This would allow for the masts to be inserted separately as well. <br />
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Fourth is the hinge method. Your masts are held down by a hinge and are pulled up using the forward stays. This is the most common method and is a great place to start. <br />
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Fifth is what is known as the Hinkley Hinge so named after Jack Hinkley who invented it. I have not personally tried this one either but I see it as a definite upgrade to the regular hing method. It keeps the mast perfectly straight as it raises up unlike the regular hinge that may fall off to the side. It also hides the hinge creating a more realistic look.<br />
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The reason so many different styles is important is because one style may not work for the type of ship your building. For instance I mentioned earlier my usual hinge method would not work for the Adventure. This is because with the multiple decks I had no space to fit the masts all stacked up on deck connected to hinges. <br />
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It's important to remember there is no wrong or right way to SIB building. It's like painting with water colors as opposed to oil paints. You use what works and what gives you the best result for what you are trying to portray. <br />
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So with regards to my Adventure Pirate Frigate here is how she looked before going into the bottle. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPKLkcXDp-5-Ag6EVwgN1H8oZbwyker3B-a5Hin7D9jH9MqpdvsN6RgHzp3uM0rR-b54O7pNyKMYRJ1q5S5r9Pp9wvRVMqF1CfvH-yMnBkcWJc0eIPZXwUn7q7q9wGBGe1d6P9V14V5Hrb/s1600/Frigate+032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPKLkcXDp-5-Ag6EVwgN1H8oZbwyker3B-a5Hin7D9jH9MqpdvsN6RgHzp3uM0rR-b54O7pNyKMYRJ1q5S5r9Pp9wvRVMqF1CfvH-yMnBkcWJc0eIPZXwUn7q7q9wGBGe1d6P9V14V5Hrb/s320/Frigate+032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see my split hull and my two forward masts completely separated from the ship. The mizzen mast was small enough to fit with the hull so I used the first technique shown in the picture above and drilled a shallow hole for the mast to go into. <br />
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The tricky part of this method was the rigging. The forward stays ran through the forward masts while the back stays were glued on after the ship was placed in the bottle. I drilled deep holes in the mast that helped guide my split hull pieces together and held the masts straight so the back stays could be positioned correctly. <br />
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I also used a different method in that I hung the ship from a string through the cork allowing the ship to appear to float in the bottle. I like this method because it is easier and cleaner then trying to get clay or putty into a bottle and it allows you to see the entire ship and not just above the water line. The idea came from a feature by Greg Alvey at Folkartinbottles.com. Here's the link. <a href="http://www.folkartinbottles.com/featured/114-suspended-models">http://www.folkartinbottles.com/featured/114-suspended-models</a><br />
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In conclusion the Adventure turned out well and was a lot of fun to build. Here is the pictures of the final result.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJn8Ve0YSo7ts8wHolLQlZ18O0QdKnO2Rlchyphenhyphen2pE0kaAUFvpZDrbPj-TvrUrwkn46obsj-3tXCvprxsTFCmDpgaSeqq9q90SVitm3aylrlSErjb1R6eD15-7DyhWYyksaoO2fFL5_dHa9P/s1600/Frigate+done2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJn8Ve0YSo7ts8wHolLQlZ18O0QdKnO2Rlchyphenhyphen2pE0kaAUFvpZDrbPj-TvrUrwkn46obsj-3tXCvprxsTFCmDpgaSeqq9q90SVitm3aylrlSErjb1R6eD15-7DyhWYyksaoO2fFL5_dHa9P/s320/Frigate+done2.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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And a little fun with Photoshop.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpVrVs1b4HC-QYiLCW3jjssWe1zBhul9NUqmITLnIUfeGaLX7gnimz0uejcX_pBiATHKgZVOiPlroCQCJtvYIr3-zOQblLuk50IlBj6yxqO63M7AXV80R9IWjp21-hvg5n16Fvm5LBke0/s1600/beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpVrVs1b4HC-QYiLCW3jjssWe1zBhul9NUqmITLnIUfeGaLX7gnimz0uejcX_pBiATHKgZVOiPlroCQCJtvYIr3-zOQblLuk50IlBj6yxqO63M7AXV80R9IWjp21-hvg5n16Fvm5LBke0/s320/beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Keep building and exploring new methods and thanks for reading. </span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-35661078319629418742012-06-25T03:00:00.000-06:002012-06-25T03:00:09.927-06:00Split Hulls and Deck Accessories<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm back! I have a lot of material from my current build to go over so this will be a some what extensive post. I want to cover a couple of things this time. First split hulls and then how to make some deck accessories that will add detail to the ship. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcWxpm3yjbKnS2K4pu04mU13FicdJGnUyWLpIn-uNmKyEJkHvKsjrvrw5-31QzF3VsDDQx3r385fXrpSSAJWM2ZuwMShTOny1MMA0zhqLsai57y7A87yuJkBVwIV_xI5t_UCrHCTwSWW6/s1600/Frigate+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcWxpm3yjbKnS2K4pu04mU13FicdJGnUyWLpIn-uNmKyEJkHvKsjrvrw5-31QzF3VsDDQx3r385fXrpSSAJWM2ZuwMShTOny1MMA0zhqLsai57y7A87yuJkBVwIV_xI5t_UCrHCTwSWW6/s1600/Frigate+001.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is the beginnings of my current build which is the most cliche ship of all time, the pirate frigate. It would take a blog post in and of its self to explain all of the carving that went into this hull but for this post the important thing is the split. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKCQ_SQGvWW9Db1KcSxtRgTm01qLjqKzVSRqkVbOsZPpNYpTiotjr8_w5ZTBOQa7pSRUe28aGPNaHVmrzyD2WteWivZ5kSQGdNwmUGx4_yS1H3HQ-0nE4olua8u-159HyqVZNLsCPbl0X/s1600/Frigate+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKCQ_SQGvWW9Db1KcSxtRgTm01qLjqKzVSRqkVbOsZPpNYpTiotjr8_w5ZTBOQa7pSRUe28aGPNaHVmrzyD2WteWivZ5kSQGdNwmUGx4_yS1H3HQ-0nE4olua8u-159HyqVZNLsCPbl0X/s320/Frigate+004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is the ship split. Splitting the hull enables you to put a bigger ship into a smaller bottle. This gives the illusion that there is no way the ship could fit in the bottle much less the mast and sails. With this ship I've used the channel to hide the split. The channel is the raised section of wood that goes horizontally across the hull. The channel is used to keep the stays from rubbing against and breaking the rails of the ship. When the ship is put together the channel will hide any creases between the split. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDDTm9cKvpMq-BaRhook9U1o89ATq-ItWupd2HMFz1VGpv-YgRIY-y8357EY0ot1SDPmPhGb7fHOHWxTQjWAEZeLyKf_WWsC7g08v7WnIj49f2UVS3vUBZxUV5daT3cKfrg70Tp6gYpP_/s1600/Frigate+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDDTm9cKvpMq-BaRhook9U1o89ATq-ItWupd2HMFz1VGpv-YgRIY-y8357EY0ot1SDPmPhGb7fHOHWxTQjWAEZeLyKf_WWsC7g08v7WnIj49f2UVS3vUBZxUV5daT3cKfrg70Tp6gYpP_/s320/Frigate+010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is after I applied the paint. I use acrylics mainly. It's easy to clean up, cheap, and it looks good. In order to create the fine lines of gold paint I dipped the very tip of a toothpick into the paint and applied it by drawing it on like a pen. Where it was over applied I let it dry and put the brown paint over it until it looked right. The hull still splits it is just stacked on top of the other in this photo. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg13VkGzmyBrZpQkF_UTXL-7oPfZbD0kSCEp0KSXjWEyL9K8oyYB38Yx3koqSUtLrKYrIP7y0RzANey9hpplNnpK6cjjluf8D7U1dgq1y51S-4LdmSr5YFhEVRNdOvdhX8uVvh9DidurFz6/s1600/Frigate+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg13VkGzmyBrZpQkF_UTXL-7oPfZbD0kSCEp0KSXjWEyL9K8oyYB38Yx3koqSUtLrKYrIP7y0RzANey9hpplNnpK6cjjluf8D7U1dgq1y51S-4LdmSr5YFhEVRNdOvdhX8uVvh9DidurFz6/s320/Frigate+006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuXEsNxJW5bbVTh4REZ4AIFYU7lUfEjAhrFsQEHXDgTB-u_ZQD_F9nid90EwxceAE5mqNhyphenhyphenN7VrFUSh55FTWNo9rOwTzH81u4F1BDRX6wYkEaP3QQcw8IwZyr7G_3ld61wY0cpPjFZGAE/s1600/Frigate+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuXEsNxJW5bbVTh4REZ4AIFYU7lUfEjAhrFsQEHXDgTB-u_ZQD_F9nid90EwxceAE5mqNhyphenhyphenN7VrFUSh55FTWNo9rOwTzH81u4F1BDRX6wYkEaP3QQcw8IwZyr7G_3ld61wY0cpPjFZGAE/s320/Frigate+007.jpg" width="320" /></a>These two shots show more of the deck. I drew in the planking with a fine point sharpy. I also added a hatch and a long boat. I regret that I didn't get more pictures of these before gluing them in. I will try and go over them more in a later post. The hatch is made in much the same way as the other parts. I painted lines across the hatch vertically and horizontally so it looks like a grate. I then used my fine point sharpy to fill in where the holes in the grate would be. I then glued a frame around the hatch and sanded it down so it wasn't coming up to far. My general rule for applying more wood to any section of the ship is to add more and sand down rather then to get it perfectly cut the first time. </div>
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As for the long boat I cut out a small block of wood and sanded it into shape. I sanded off the corners in the front first then rounded the bottom finally rounding up the front and back. This will take time and patients since the boat is so small. I don't worry about carving out the inside it's to small for that. I turn it upside down and glue it onto the ship. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFcvo1suVCBxi6txGDCOZDVOZMsqMGyhruqJmirzlybp2V3e5l3QggyGEdTGXZEne0a2h9Y8aU4HDwMTBod0uQfOVMJu2gFwUMqOH-cOXtG8jplC3x801N1Ce8IvcGANfQSE-TqzcjcXQ/s1600/Copy+of+Frigate+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFcvo1suVCBxi6txGDCOZDVOZMsqMGyhruqJmirzlybp2V3e5l3QggyGEdTGXZEne0a2h9Y8aU4HDwMTBod0uQfOVMJu2gFwUMqOH-cOXtG8jplC3x801N1Ce8IvcGANfQSE-TqzcjcXQ/s320/Copy+of+Frigate+012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next thing I want to go over is anchors. I love putting anchors on my ship. I like the detail they add. I make all of my own anchors out of wire. This way I can make them the exact size I need in order to fit my ship. This is especially helpful in ships of this scale since I've yet been unable to find anchors that you can buy for such small ships. I've outlined all of the steps below. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UyDTV4udfHRD9rJF7xekXKV_MOXH6P68_xHqPS4qcOPOTbPUjrkbvaz4HiKZCvVHI7mrONtUVogi1S8Twsh-hXIMr2rpVCQEtaHURyIbw3lRP2L3ZR9G269HyGJpw4cxJUjflHDnDOTz/s1600/Frigate+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UyDTV4udfHRD9rJF7xekXKV_MOXH6P68_xHqPS4qcOPOTbPUjrkbvaz4HiKZCvVHI7mrONtUVogi1S8Twsh-hXIMr2rpVCQEtaHURyIbw3lRP2L3ZR9G269HyGJpw4cxJUjflHDnDOTz/s320/Frigate+014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Your going to need a set of needle nose pliers to do this the smaller the better. Use plenty of wire you'll be cutting off the excess in the end. Clamp the wire in the middle. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBhSl-2tT4Xp1AIT_B7YHMGE7CZEirHTPAG2jkhCpvP_MZgxzamZ0J9IX4qCPZb9EAP6OJhubhpQZ6hIg-EukhRqB9hhI4TRDaQsv3YzFBmrc6vX64TooZHBUbChkPWt1SKtFCXSu911-/s1600/Copy+of+Frigate+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBhSl-2tT4Xp1AIT_B7YHMGE7CZEirHTPAG2jkhCpvP_MZgxzamZ0J9IX4qCPZb9EAP6OJhubhpQZ6hIg-EukhRqB9hhI4TRDaQsv3YzFBmrc6vX64TooZHBUbChkPWt1SKtFCXSu911-/s320/Copy+of+Frigate+015.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Then simply fold it in half. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQoBw9KnzUc1AXpref5QnKyUaozhYZczMh-z-7uaHtTG8T7pFLaHPU4l-YDYiBldcUO5krn9xuMn5wxzdDPU1j9-urxx39S9gR81mS3CFnLD7wKS6jfnYi0DuQVlg9KfNZTCUlBUcmwDO/s1600/Copy+of+Frigate+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQoBw9KnzUc1AXpref5QnKyUaozhYZczMh-z-7uaHtTG8T7pFLaHPU4l-YDYiBldcUO5krn9xuMn5wxzdDPU1j9-urxx39S9gR81mS3CFnLD7wKS6jfnYi0DuQVlg9KfNZTCUlBUcmwDO/s320/Copy+of+Frigate+016.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Clamp the wire together just below the end. The top portion that is not clamped together will make the eye of the anchor. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikd739lDPnbiIboUqQU1iYMWsTgqs7a8y7AvDIupXTat5pLyuvnB1pGxUeF8P0LVDG8Zmn29AzzAk7jlUNef15AVZMXGyVbhwWxpv-s2LIJA0DI604m3XfWWoybpoPL26I7Lo7NWU5jjFj/s1600/Copy+of+Frigate+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikd739lDPnbiIboUqQU1iYMWsTgqs7a8y7AvDIupXTat5pLyuvnB1pGxUeF8P0LVDG8Zmn29AzzAk7jlUNef15AVZMXGyVbhwWxpv-s2LIJA0DI604m3XfWWoybpoPL26I7Lo7NWU5jjFj/s320/Copy+of+Frigate+017.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Then decide on the size of your anchor. For bigger sizes I like to twist the wire together for added strength. When you get real small this become impossible. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YgB2-moupgEsCgwEOLZkYOIPbZytWNW5l5nkawhxZx00N-_kYOcqmr39w65hWmLo-MDXOntNnLWkVyDhTUf3VQxmwSG_iM3kyaEv-jy0_5hl8lamlUsaZG5TDIpz77eAFJmqG4MWzEvA/s1600/Frigate+018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YgB2-moupgEsCgwEOLZkYOIPbZytWNW5l5nkawhxZx00N-_kYOcqmr39w65hWmLo-MDXOntNnLWkVyDhTUf3VQxmwSG_iM3kyaEv-jy0_5hl8lamlUsaZG5TDIpz77eAFJmqG4MWzEvA/s320/Frigate+018.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
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You then want to bend the ends around the needle nose. The closer you get to the end of the needle nose the smaller the loops will be so use that to decide the size you want this part of the anchor to be. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9qBpyqGS3RN2lka0RjenFMNy87DXUYtkSQg4mtfyGVzfrtmV0yaGxfnFpL17o2aQtfpSWyWhmvCmuLUF4C0VIN07ZbIAdzQmyGWn5TagHBdMoTQVQWMCWIuIw36IE-G6l1_C52Iw2b_Q/s1600/Frigate+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9qBpyqGS3RN2lka0RjenFMNy87DXUYtkSQg4mtfyGVzfrtmV0yaGxfnFpL17o2aQtfpSWyWhmvCmuLUF4C0VIN07ZbIAdzQmyGWn5TagHBdMoTQVQWMCWIuIw36IE-G6l1_C52Iw2b_Q/s320/Frigate+020.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Then trim off the ends and make final adjustments according to how you think it should look. Another SIB builder who I shared this idea with added a little strip of wood on top that is consistent with real anchors. I didn't add this until I saw how well her's turned out and have since included it. It can be a pain to get it to glue just right. As always have patience and keep trying. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXiut9VlOggxdH-OYASeJGzJcm_jqIcNg5ElfRu5agVQMkoSzB8L1LMxV8YNTdNwIhpb5Gr-MSq-UJwVKJ7mT_CYHS-xpPj8o27sr7xm6hI-mzHh-AAttizHc_ciUb5uwUclwQV5rFZap/s1600/Copy+of+Frigate+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXiut9VlOggxdH-OYASeJGzJcm_jqIcNg5ElfRu5agVQMkoSzB8L1LMxV8YNTdNwIhpb5Gr-MSq-UJwVKJ7mT_CYHS-xpPj8o27sr7xm6hI-mzHh-AAttizHc_ciUb5uwUclwQV5rFZap/s320/Copy+of+Frigate+013.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I now want to go over a very popular accessory to ships the cannon! A pirate ship would not be a pirate ship if it did not have cannons. I use two methods of canons on this ship the first is the cannons in the side of the ship. For these I used wire insulation with the wire taken out. This works well because it has the hole where the cannon balls come out so it adds a little bit of realism there. For these I drilled into the side of the ship and glued them into place. That to me is the simplest way to add cannons to a ship of this scale. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSInwXtA3PcwBXanEr9H88sRgQMdJUCB5uHgLUgPIRwDJdpFQOBb6Cyec6Vm0KFcZt4z7EjTyWQv70GvJry4L-bFyynx2xwIo1bC7Jp3qag8L8VIberAHtNdNa-H9MzROrvSBTcwTEIzDy/s1600/Frigate+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSInwXtA3PcwBXanEr9H88sRgQMdJUCB5uHgLUgPIRwDJdpFQOBb6Cyec6Vm0KFcZt4z7EjTyWQv70GvJry4L-bFyynx2xwIo1bC7Jp3qag8L8VIberAHtNdNa-H9MzROrvSBTcwTEIzDy/s320/Frigate+022.jpg" width="320" /></a> I also used a more complicated method for the cannons on deck. Unfortunately I ran out of room on deck or I would have added more. In any case for this method I used a dremel to sand down a tooth pick into the shape of a cannon. The simplest way to explain it is sand down the middle section and then round off one end and keep the other end straight. This takes time and patients as well. It is hard to hold and sand such small parts so take your time and work with it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA9w1P50w2KklLD_hOyUPUUjVaT2sc81A_go2QdBQzBbe5u4dVkkiQbuRYF9KyblEiVpexVLyu3uZxAPfTCevMXhpwqBbmhASXjO-lgHX2qaqXd3Ni8gzu9AKvyex0vetZltM9w2QIMkBk/s1600/Frigate+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA9w1P50w2KklLD_hOyUPUUjVaT2sc81A_go2QdBQzBbe5u4dVkkiQbuRYF9KyblEiVpexVLyu3uZxAPfTCevMXhpwqBbmhASXjO-lgHX2qaqXd3Ni8gzu9AKvyex0vetZltM9w2QIMkBk/s320/Frigate+023.jpg" width="320" /></a> The next part is to make the base of the cannon. Cut out a small rectangular piece of wood and glue two toothpick sections for the wheels. Then glue the cannon on top. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFEvBLV2FsWLwKmBT8iFqSTiiWI4dG_I-kx9wC5C8cvMdatF4Wb6Uw3QDW1orGBlowDPLWC7C-66vL62AVgkaxaA9Dqfe2Vz1dEKxwZNHldLjN5PwuQKMrUfYfa97jr4MIh1uMpvxyoHR/s1600/Frigate+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFEvBLV2FsWLwKmBT8iFqSTiiWI4dG_I-kx9wC5C8cvMdatF4Wb6Uw3QDW1orGBlowDPLWC7C-66vL62AVgkaxaA9Dqfe2Vz1dEKxwZNHldLjN5PwuQKMrUfYfa97jr4MIh1uMpvxyoHR/s320/Frigate+025.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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This picture just shows the cannon on the deck of the ship. The other cannon will soon be glued down on the other side. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8LJmPqbntuyIPwIcl-WGCKHmFQRXICx5pBQRAfrbGMRBEYe-b6nOrS4uckptA9lIWwZUfuElS6LS89E1QMIrVUEv34dk6d0o9cveszViPFHPoNYT3AnJdGZ72NYDYD6ShFy0SzY15dQl/s1600/Frigate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8LJmPqbntuyIPwIcl-WGCKHmFQRXICx5pBQRAfrbGMRBEYe-b6nOrS4uckptA9lIWwZUfuElS6LS89E1QMIrVUEv34dk6d0o9cveszViPFHPoNYT3AnJdGZ72NYDYD6ShFy0SzY15dQl/s320/Frigate.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Thank you for reading I hope this has been informative. I will be posting more on Ships in Bottles and this particular build later. If this blog has inspired you to build your own SIB please email me a picture at siemensbottelingco.gmail.com. I would love to start a followers gallery and show off your work. Thank you again for reading.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-84026021072027710432012-06-02T05:32:00.002-06:002012-06-02T05:33:40.390-06:00Coming Back...Just a quick update to say that we will be returning in two weeks. The next post will be about how to make those special little details that go on the deck.<br />
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Until then check out the new Games page. Enjoy!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-15018691809921105152012-03-06T06:44:00.000-07:002012-03-06T06:44:20.231-07:00A Brief History<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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**Sorry about the late update readers. We will be back on schedule for our March 17th post**<br /><br />Building ships in bottles is a fascinating, and to some people, a daunting task. It’s no wonder they are also known as patience bottles. The first SIB’s were built in the late 18th and early 19th century. While the person who started building ships in bottles is unknown, the reasons are not hard to see. <br /> <br />Being a sailor on a ship was a lot of hard work but not all the time. While traveling the world at a speed of 20 mph or less there was only so much that could be done. So it’s easy to see that one day a sailor is looking at the trash he’s about to throw over board, consisting of old rope, yarn, whale or walrus bones, wood and of course bottles and he gets an idea. Why not build a replica of the ship he’s sailing in and fit it in a bottle. <br /> <br />In looking into the history of ships in bottles I found there was really three reasons people built them, religious gifts given to churches to bring sailors good fortune, gifts for family or lovers at home, and sheer boredom. Today it has become a fascinating craft of amazing detail and skill. There are associations worldwide whose sole purpose is to keep the art of ship in bottle making alive. The Ship in Bottles Association of America has over 500 members and produces a quarterly newsletter. <br /> <br />The modern world of SIB builders has created many great techniques that add to the detail of their creations. SIB’s have become more like paintings in that some builders elect to put more detail in their ships while others withhold some details that the imagination fills in. <br /> <br /> Also in recent years there have been many SIB builders that are notorious in the SIB community for their craftsman ship and style. One such Builder was George Fulfit who is known for his incredible ships and for putting seagulls that seem to fly around the bottle. A short documentary featuring George Fulfit was made by Robert Fresco entitled “Steady as She Goes” and can be found at <a href="http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/steady_as_she_goes">http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/steady_as_she_goes</a>. <br /> <br />Ships in bottles have come a long way over the last 200 plus years of the craft. In my opinion, it is not going away. As long as people can feel the thrill of sailing and the awe of the enormous and elegant tall ships or have a fascination for the impossible there will always be Ships in Bottles. <br /><br /> <br />Thank you for reading! After this post I will begin explaining and describing how to do some different types of ships and the little details you can put on to them.<br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br /> <br />Sources <br /><br /><a href="http://www.shipbottle.ru/english/associations/">http://www.shipbottle.ru/english/associations/</a> <br /><br /><a href="http://www.shipsinbottles.org/history.html">http://www.shipsinbottles.org/history.html</a> <br /><br /><a href="http://www.shipbottle.ru/english/tips/article6.shtml">http://www.shipbottle.ru/english/tips/article6.shtml</a> <br /><br /><a href="http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/steady_as_she_goes">http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/steady_as_she_goes</a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-86238074732825203622012-02-18T17:18:00.000-07:002012-02-18T17:18:43.795-07:00How to Build a Schooner in a Bottle<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Welcome
to the world of building tiny ships and putting them into bottles. Before we get started I’d like to direct your
attention to the <a href="http://siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/p/about.html">About</a> & <a href="http://siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com/p/gallery.html">Gallery</a> pages. There you can learn a little about me and why
I started this blog as well as see some of my work.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">To
start off I wanted to show you how to build a simple ship and get it into the
bottle. I will use later post to explain
some of the more detailed work you can put into these ships. One of the easiest types of ships is a
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schooner">schooner</a>.
I find that schooners have the simplest rigging with the least amount of
knots needed to make it work.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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first thing you will need is the bottle.
The type and size of bottle will determine how big you can make the ship. For this ship I used a flask but I suggest
you start off with a regular bottle that can be laid on its side and has a wide
mouth. Not too wide of a mouth, you
still want your friends to be awed with how you got the ship into the bottle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Next
you will need a thin piece of wood, about a ¼ in thick. I got a $.35 slat at
Home Depot and it’s lasted me a while.
Cut it to the size you want and that will fit in the bottle. For this ship I used about 2in of wood. Be sure, as you work with the wood, to check
it against the bottle and make sure it will fit through the mouth with some
room to spare for your mast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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shaping the wood by sanding each side smooth and then draw out the front of the
ship so you know where to carve.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">You can use something as simple as a pocket knife to do the
carving. Then carve out the rest of the
ship, rounding out the bottom so that if you turn the ship on its side it looks
like a “D”. To make it look even more
realistic sand the front and back so they curve up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once
everything is sanded smooth you are ready to paint. I suggest staining the ship to bring out the
wood grain and then painting the sides (if you choose to). If you do choose to stain, this would be a
good time to stain the tooth picks or skewers you plan on using for your mast. After the stain dries then you can paint the
sides.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The
next step is putting on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bow_(ship)">bow</a>.
Start at the point of the ship, drill straight down about 1/16in, be
sure not to drill all the way through. Keeping your drill in the same hole, turn
the drill to the angle you want the bow and drill in about ¼ in. Then trim a
toothpick to the desired length of the bow and glue it into the hole. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">While
the glue is drying, use needle nose pliers to bend a piece of wire into a metal
loop with a straight piece that will run against the bow. Place the loop on the tip of the bow and make
sure there is enough room between the loop and the bow to run lines through the
loop. Glue the loop down and secure it
with a whip knot. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Now,
using a #61 drill bit, you will drill holes into the deck for your mast. Mark out on the deck where you want the mast
to be and then drill two holes on each side of the masts. Again, do not drill all the way through the
deck. You will also need a #61 drill bit
to make tiny holes in the toothpicks you use for the mast. On the toothpick you plan to use as the
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foremast">foremast</a> you will need two holes, one near the bottom and one near
the top. The bottom hole needs to run
side to side compared to the deck for the hinge. The top hole needs to run back to front for
the line you’ll thread through it later.
On the toothpick you’ll use for the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mizzenmast">mizzenmast</a> you just need
one hole near the bottom for the hinge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Next
you will put the mast together. Using the
bottle to give you an idea of how tall your mast can be, trim your toothpicks
to length. Be sure that the top of the
mast won’t actually touch the top of the bottle. Then trim a piece to make the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaff_rig">gaff</a> and lay it out next to the mast at the desired angle (I generally eye
ball this to whatever length/angle looks good).
Do the same with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_(sailing)">boom</a>.
You will now tie the gaff and boom to the mast using a whipping knot. Start the knot at the top of the mast, glue the
ends to the gaff and then tie a separate whipping knot around that. Use the same process for tying on the boom. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once
you have your masts put together you can make the sails. Lay down the mast on to the cloth you plan to
use for sails and trace the inside. Cut
out the sails and glue on. (stripes/design optional)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Now
that you have mast and sails all put together, they’re ready to attach to the
deck. Using a 1 ½ in piece of wire, hold
the middle with needle nose pliers and bend wire in half, making a “U”
shape. Have the bottom part of the “U”
wide enough to support your mast. Thread
the wire through the mast, trim the wire so that the bottom of the mast barely
touches the deck, and then glue the wire ends into the holes. You’ll want the
mast to be able to swing easily on the hinge, so give your self plenty of room.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Next
comes the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rigging">rigging</a>, which is the hardest part. The secret to doing some of these tiny knots is
to not be afraid to use and maybe waste a lot of thread. You’ll want to make
large loops so you can get the thread through and then pull everything into
tight little knots. To start off with you’ll drill holes into the side of the
ship, two on each side. Place the holes
just behind each mast. Then glue some wire
into the holes, it doesn’t matter how long the wires are, you’ll trim them
later. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Start
with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstay">back stays</a>. These lines will
tie the masts to the side of the ship and keep the mast upright, perpendicular to
the deck. I like to use dead eyes to
make the back stays adjustable. Thread
the line through one of the holes in the dead eye and out another hole. Then loop the line around the wire on the
side of the ship. Then use a slip knot to go around the out side of the dead
eye. Adjust the dead eye to be centered between the top of the mast and the
wire. Make sure the mast is perpendicular
to the deck and then tie off your line near the top of the mast. Bend the wire back so it’s tight against the
side of the ship and keeps your line in place, but loose enough to adjust the
deadeye; then trim off the excess wire.
Once the back stays are done on both sides, adjust the dead eyes so when
the back stays are tight the masts are straight up and down. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The
next part is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forestay">stays</a>. This is the line
that runs along the top of the ship and pulls the mast forward. The stays pull forward while the back stays
pull back holding the masts up. Tie the
stay to the top of the mizzen mast. Then
run the line through the hole in the fore mast.
The line must be allowed to move freely through the foremast so that
everything can fold down against the ship.
Now thread the line through the metal ring on the bow. Keep around eight inches of extra line off
the bow so you can pull the sails up once the ship is in the bottle. Next, tie a line to the fore mast just below
the stay. Run this line through the
metal loop in the bow and again keep eight inches of extra line. Cut out a jib sail that will fit between the
fore mast and the metal loop on the bow.
Glue the jib sail to the second stay.
Make sure not to glue it to the first so that it can move freely through
the foremast. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">This
next part is purely decorative, but I like to make these SIB’s as realistic as
possible. You can put in running lines by
ting a line from the back of a sail to the wire pieces on the side of the ship.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">You
are now done with building the ship! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kFpF06Z99bkg3RoVJ4hxxd0SrvY7JUEZBhhtn6JGnyM6hDkosx_HPgBMMpy1Pzz16JrnAkbsRiFtUHZFABydUkzZqyW5XXp02GFjKVcpAnrvGA1VUlJi34bIGuyV3csHVWXZSO1KnKUb/s1600/_MG_9161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kFpF06Z99bkg3RoVJ4hxxd0SrvY7JUEZBhhtn6JGnyM6hDkosx_HPgBMMpy1Pzz16JrnAkbsRiFtUHZFABydUkzZqyW5XXp02GFjKVcpAnrvGA1VUlJi34bIGuyV3csHVWXZSO1KnKUb/s320/_MG_9161.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Now
it’s time to prepare the bottle. I use
blue clay for effect and to help keep the ship in place. Start by flattening out a piece of clay that
will fit in the bottom of the bottle.
Then take your clay and carefully roll it up so you can fit it through
the mouth of the bottle. Once it’s in, use
a hook to unroll and press the clay into the bottom of the bottle. You can make a good hook by cutting apart a
wire hanger and bending the end at a 90 degree angle. I recommend having two hooks; what I call a
clean and a dirty hook. Use the dirty
hook for maneuvering clay in the bottle and the clean hook for maneuvering the
ship in the bottle. That way you don’t
get clay all over your ship. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Time
to put the ship into the bottle. Fold
the mast down against the ship and carefully put the ship in back end
first. It might be a tight fit but don’t
force it too hard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Once it’s in the
bottle, pull your lines so the mast pops up.
When you’re sure everything looks as you want it, use a hook to put a
dab of glue onto the end of the bow where the lines are coming out. When the glue is dry you can cut the excess
line. With the help of your hooks, maneuver the ship to where you want it and
press it down into the clay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">In
the case of a flask you do need to turn the ship so that it rest on the bottom
properly. This can be a little tricky,
thus why I suggest using a bottle that can lie on its side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">You
have now made a Ship In A Bottle!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Thank
you so much for reading! I hope this has
been helpful for you. If you have any
comments, questions or suggestions please leave a comment. Also, we’d love to
see your finished works. We plan on
making a “Fan Gallery” page so if you want to send in a picture e-mail it to <a href="mailto:siemensbottleingco@gmail.com">siemensbottleingco@gmail.com</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04523931735006872988noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4098339044439858266.post-41530527052050287212012-02-13T10:51:00.000-07:002012-02-13T10:51:28.716-07:00Under ConstructionThis blog is new and under construction. We should be up and running by Feb. 18th.<br />
<br />
See you then!<br />
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